Showing posts with label Saigon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Saigon. Show all posts

Sunday, July 14, 2013

Streets of Saigon

The Cathedral of Notre Dame
Saigon, the Paris of the East!  Today, the French influence still remains in the elegant boulevards, stately colonial buildings; the coffee (ca phe) houses and the French restaurants; the Notre Dame de Saigon; the thriving gallery and art scene; the shopping!

After the fall of the South Vietnamese government, Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC).  But Saigon still remains, as a district of HCMC, which expands beyond Saigon to the surrounding areas.  We stayed at the Majestic Hotel, an old hotel right by the river.  It is a charming old hotel (with good deals on suites) on Dong Koi avenue, a short walk to the City Centre.

Dong Koi itself is a pleasant, tree-lined street with charming little shops and art galleries.  The souvenir shops are reasonably priced, and the tailoring shops guarantee 24 hour turn-around time.  Art galleries can be found up and down the street - a tour of the Vietnamese art scene all on their own. There the more expensive and upmarket galleries, with more well-known artists, but we also found one which featured the "unknowns" - original pieces selling for about US$150 rather than US$1,500. 
 
Technology introduced in the cathedral
We walked down Dong Koi to the Cathedral of Notre Dame for Sunday mass.  The building itself would not have been out-of-place in any European city.  The stained glass and little plaques on the walls reminded me of churches in France.  But the Cathedral had its modern touches, the screens at the columns helping us follow the mass. And as choir was singing the hymns in Vietnamese (only the responses were sung in English), it was clear that we were indeed in Vietnam.  And, of course, the priest was Vietnamese :-)  

ATMs replace phone booths
The imposing building next to the Cathedral turned out to be the Post Office. It is still a working Post Office, although half the phone booths at the walls are used as ATMs.  There are souvenir shops in one corner, quite reasonably priced ones too.  Indeed, many of these old colonial buildings dot the city.  The Opera House, the City Hall, other beautiful old Hotels, museums.  In between, newer buildings emerge - sleek office blocks, glitzy shopping centres.  But, the streets are chaotic - full of motorcycles going in all directions.  The air tends to be polluted (or at least that's how I felt before I encountered the haze).

Viet Ca Phe
Coffee houses too are everywhere.  I had a cup of potent Vietnamese coffee in one of the famous Trung Nguyen coffee chain outlets.  It is said, that Trung Nguyen reacted to Starbucks setting up shop in HCMC by opening an outlet in Seattle!  I can well imagine that the robust brews of the Vietnamese can indeed give the tepid and dilute American-style coffee a good run for their money.

The food scene in HCMC left us spoilt for choice.  We dined at old Vietnamese restaurants, in small coffee shops and one night in La Villa, Tripadvisor's top rated restaurant - a place well deserving of its top billing.  Another night was spent at a small pho eatery, which was famous for its spicy beef pho (although it appeared to be priced at a premium for the poor tourist).

Motorcycles streaming past the Opera House
All in all, HCMC is indeed an exciting and vibrant mix of old and new, of east and west. Indeed, a city of developing Asia, rising above the trials of the recent past but still working through the challenges of rapid growth.

More photos of my visit can be found here, together with the record of earlier trips to Vietnam.

Saturday, June 29, 2013

Re-unification of Vietnam

Helicopter at the Reunification Palace Helipad

For me, one icon of the Vietnam War is the helicopter - yes, I'm thinking of the one in Miss Saigon with the American G.I. waiting beside it, to take the heroine to the US.  Of course, she never shows up... ... and he is forced to fly off without her.  Saigon, more than 30 years after the end of the Vietnam War, is a completely different city.

The Reunification Palace is however one place where time has stood still.  In itself a result of the strife in Vietnam after WWII, the Palace was completed in 1966 after the previous Presidential Palace (the Independence Palace) was bombed and partially destroyed by two pilots who rebelled and bombed the Palace instead of the Viet Cong.  The Palace was too badly damaged to be repaired and was instead rebuilt.  However, it did not last long as the seat of power.  On 30 Apr 1975, North Vietnamese tanks rolled through the main gates of the Palace, culminating in  the dramatic "handover" of power to the North Vietnamese government.

Mahjong, anyone?
Today, the Palace remains more or less untouched from these last days.  The upper floors contain the formal reception rooms and meeting areas, including an auditorium and the Cabinet meeting room.  On the top floor, however, things get a little more interesting with the addition of a mini cinema and a gambling room.  The mahjong table is still on display.  

But what makes the Palace truly interesting is the basement, fitted out with the communications equipment and maps required for the President to keep a handle on the progress of the war.  The mood is sombre, and heavy.  A place and a government which history has left in the dust; events have moved elsewhere and the palace remains today as a museum and tourist attraction.  

A small exhibition in the basement of the Palace gives a brief pictorial history of Vietnam in the 1960s to recent days.  The events leading up to the war, the protests against the previous government are all covered.  There are still some hardware around to be seen - a helicopter rests on the helipad; replicas of the tanks which went through the gates of the Palace sit near the exit.

But the Reunification Palace as a whole is a calm and serene looking building.  No longer a seat of power, it is now a memorial to moment in time where the fate of Vietnam was decided.  Hopefully, its days of turmoil and strife, of bitter battles and last stands, are finally over.

Reunification Palace

More photos here.

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