Washington, D.C. - The Nation's Capital

In DC, it's all government, museums and memorials. We stayed in the middle of all these federal departments which is not much fun after the sun has set (and also not too safe, according to my sources). Apparently its because Residence Inn is the only one with kitchens and dinner provided. Well, at least the dinner was better than that in Residence Inn Cambridge. But I'd rather be a little nearer the centre of action rather than next to the Trade Commission.

Our programme in DC focused on visits largely to various federal departments, one aide to a Senator and visits to the World Bank and an NGO (with links to KSG). We also had dinner with Amb Chan and met Derwin Pereira of ST (I learnt that he had studied at the LSE and graduated one year after me). But the meetings were not particularly memorable. The folks we met were relatively senior (at the Asst Secretary level) but some didn't spout anything but the party line, particularly the political appointees. The professional diplomats at the State Department were more willing to be open and frank by comparison and didn't treat us as though we were schoolchildren. It was interesting to get a sense of the type of people there and to see how they perceived us as a group (clearly not that important).

But there were plus points too. One memorable moment was our visit to the Pentagon. The official hosting our visit told us that he had been sitting in the very room we were in when the airplane hit. No one knew what had happened but they evacuated the room and left the building. Only then did his group realise what had happened. We also visited the memorial at the portion of the Pentagon which was hit. It is a small quiet room with panels listing the victims and a book with a page for each victim - both in the Pentagon and in the plane which hit the building. There is a small chapel next to it as well. The Pentagon itself is a huge complex. There is a courtyard in the centre of the complex and a building right in the centre of the courtyard. The rumour (so our guide told us) was that in the midst of the Cold War, the Soviets were very suspicious as to why there were so many people entering and leaving the building and so trained one of their missiles to hit the structure - which was, of course, the hotdog stand.

We also met one of John Kerry's aides. It was a good session - I thought he handled our questions well eg he threw back questions for us to respond to besides just answering what we asked him. But later that day Kerry made a rather tactless statement to some schoolchildren that if they didn't learn their lessons well they would end up in Iraq. Kerry had to apologise and say he didn't mean to insult US troops in Iraq, and that the original script had a line saying, "just ask President Bush", which he had omitted. But why? Hmm. After making such a statement apparently some candidates told Kerry not to campaign with them any more. Not that they had to worry too much, the Democrats were hot this time round. Other than this chap, we didn't meet anyone else from the legislative side of the US government. Apparently it was because of the elections - everyone is campaigning. I am not sure what alternatives there could have been - perhaps we could have met journalists, and people from other think tanks? Anyway, I didn't really mind too much that we didn't have a packed program. I spent the first three days spending my spare time finishing my last assignment (rather disappointed with it even so) so any extra time was beneficial to me.

But DC in general is really the US in glorified, institutional terms. We visited the executive, legislature and (for some of us) even the judiciary (saw all 9 Supreme Court Judges in action!). Also the National Archives where the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution are kept. Their state buildings are pretty grand and imposing (all that marble!), in very classical architectural styles. It reflects the great pride Americans have in their institutions, and the famous check-and-balance system of government. I frankly think that there could be a few less checks to achieve the same level of balance but well, apparently the Americans like it that way.

We also got a chance to observe the US in the run-up to the congressional elections (held on Nov 6, the week after we were in DC). Massachussets is such a Democrat stronghold that most of the Republican campaigning is perfunctory in nature - there was only a rather vicious and nasty campaign over the Governor job. In DC, on the other hand, numerous TV ads, for Senator/Governor in both Virginia and Maryland flooded our TV screens. And instead of reading the rather parochial Boston Globe, we got the Washington Post which has far more analysis and reported more broadly on the elections as a whole rather than on a single race.

The DC field trip marked the end of our official stay in the US. In a sense it has been interesting living in closer proximity to my classmates and I certainly know a few of them a little better than before.

Just another Sunday mass

Yesterday evening we went for mass at the Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception. I rather enjoyed the sermon which talked about how we all like keeping things private - including our faith. Why do Catholics do that? Is it because we don't know enough about our faith, or we do not exactly what we believe or whether we believe it? Or do we lack courage? Courage needs to be practiced. If we say something once, it is easier to say it again and again later on. If we believe in our faith, we will want to shout it out for all to hear.

Some of my Indian classmates went to mass. Now one of them is a dapper Indian gentleman who is slightly dimensionally challenged (read a little short and plump). He sat in between the two Filipino ladies and was very happy when they hugged him at the sign of peace. I had to restrain him from going to communion though.

After mass, we visited the shrine itself under the basilica, and the crypt church. The crypt church is a massive underground complex in itself. It is heavily vaulted (supposed to be reminiscent of the catacombs of the early church) and around the edges are many individual chapels and shrines to Mary as she has manifested herself around the world, eg Our Lady of Health, Mary at Lavang, Vietnam, and so on. Each shrine is decorated and presented in different styles. Here is the Mary of Lavang, which I took to show my Vietnamese classmate:

Following mass, we went for dinner at my Filipina classmate's colleague's home. It was nice to be in someone's home after so long in an impersonal hotel room. When we left, our hostess gave us each a hug - which made it 3 in one day for my dear classmate :-)

Lincoln Memorial

We just spent our first full day in Washington, District of Columbia. The Nation’s Capital. And it has been quite interesting. We visited the US Trade Representative’s Office, and the State Department.

But the highlight of the day was our visit to the Lincoln Memorial at the end of the day. It was a solemn and awe-inspiring experience. We got there just before sunset (daylight savings is over so it gets dark at about 5.30pm or so now). The Memorial is a simple Grecian building. The huge statue of Lincoln looks out down a long reflecting pool to the Washington Monument, which is reflected in the waters. The statue shows Lincoln’s great height – his legs look rather lanky. The face is sad, but shows Lincoln’s determination to persevere despite the odds. On each side of the statue are two of his famous speeches – the Gettysburg Address and the Second Inaugural Address – which highlight his moral vision and purpose. Here’s the Gettysburg address and extract of the Second Inaugural address:

Gettysburg:

"Four score and seven years ago our fathers brought forth on this continent, a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal.

Now we are engaged in a great civil war, testing whether that nation, or any nation so conceived and so dedicated, can long endure. We are met on a great battle-field of that war. We have come to dedicate a portion of that field, as a final resting place for those who here gave their lives that that nation might live. It is altogether fitting and proper that we should do this. But, in a larger sense, we can not dedicate -- we can not consecrate -- we can not hallow -- this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have consecrated it, far above our poor power to add or detract.

The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here. It is for us the living, rather, to be dedicated here to the unfinished work which they who fought here have thus far so nobly advanced. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us -- that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to that cause for which they gave the last full measure of devotion -- that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain -- that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom -- and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth."

Second Inaugural Address:

"...Neither party expected for the war, the magnitude, or the duration, which it has already attained. Neither anticipated that the cause of the conflict might cease with, or even before, the conflict itself should cease. Each looked for an easier triumph, and a result less fundamental and astounding. Both read the same Bible, and pray to the same God; and each invokes His aid against the other. It may seem strange that any men should dare to ask a just God's assistance in wringing their bread from the sweat of other men's faces; but let us judge not that we be not judged. The prayers of both could not be answered; that of neither has been answered fully. The Almighty has his own purposes. "Woe unto the world because of offences! for it must needs be that offences come; but woe to that man by whom the offence cometh!" If we shall suppose that American Slavery is one of those offences which, in the providence of God, must needs come, but which, having continued through His appointed time, He now wills to remove, and that He gives to both North and South, this terrible war, as the woe due to those by whom the offence came, shall we discern therein any departure from those divine attributes which the believers in a Living God always ascribe to Him? Fondly do we hope--fervently do we pray--that this mighty scourge of war may speedily pass away. Yet, if God wills that it continue, until all the wealth piled by the bond-man's two hundred and fifty years of unrequited toil shall be sunk, and until every drop of blood drawn with the lash, shall be paid by another drawn with the sword, as was said three thousand years ago, so still it must be said "the judgments of the Lord, are true and righteous altogether".

With malice toward none; with charity for all; with firmness in the right, as God gives us to see the right, let us strive on to finish the work we are in; to bind up the nation's wounds; to care for him who shall have borne the battle, and for his widow, and his orphan--to do all which may achieve and cherish a just and lasting peace, among ourselves, and with all nations."

2nd Last Night in Boston

I started off this week with 3 assignments due end of this week, got a take-home exam due mid next week. I finished off one assignment on Thursday, a second one on Friday and am now 25% through the third one.

Earlier tonight we had our farewell dinner at the Harvard Faculty Club. It was a pleasant event and we received our certificates of attendance at the end. I'd been griping about the assignments all day and so one of my Indian classmates sidled up to me on the way back and asked me, "Why are you worried about outputs when you have the outcome in your hands"? Meaning, that with a certificate of attendance why did I want to bother with assignments? He then started pulling aside his shirt to show me his own certificate which he had tucked beneath. Not only was he keeping it close, it was keeping him warm as well!

Anyway, enough of procrastinating. Back to typing.

New Hampshire

This is a busy week for us. We have to finish our final assignments and get ready to go to Washington DC next week! So I will probably defer my posts on my weekend in New Hampshire for a while. In the meantime, do look at my Flickr pages for some photos and commentary. There are also some videos and photos on Multiply.

In the meantime, here is a little preview of what we saw in New Hampshire:

If you are thinking it looks cold, the answer is yes, it was cold!

The Kancamagus Highway

We drove back from North Conway to Lake Winniesepaukee (and I hope I spelt that right) via the Kancamagus Highway, which is touted as the most scenic drive in New Hampshire. It is actually quite a high altitude drive reaching almost 3,000 metres at its height.

The scenery along the way was quite spectacular with waterfalls and rapids, and scenic lookout points. We had to take a little walk to see first the Rocky Gorge, and the Sabaday Falls (photos of each in order mentioned).

There are typically little signs at each stop telling the visitor about it. For example, Rocky Gorge had a story of a girl who fell in the swirling waters of the Gorge. Apparently, there is a huge sinkhole in the gorge which was caused through erosion and the waters create a mini whirlpool at that point. The girl fell into the whirlpool, and her rescuers feared she had been drowned. But then someone saw a hand sticking up - he grabbed it and got a shock when the hand grabbed back! They pulled her out, managed to revive her and she lived happily ever after. And how did the Sabbaday falls get its name? The story is that long ago a work crew cutting a road nearby finished their work on a Saturday and named the waterfall after the next day, the Sabbath. Over time the name got corrupted to Sabbaday.

Continuing our drive, we would stop at the many beautiful scenic spots. Unfortunately for us, the foliage was a little after its peak. Nonetheless, we managed to view beautiful panoramas of mountains, valleys, and bright blue skies.
As we continued driving higher and higher, the temperatures again went lower and lower. Snowdrifts began to appear on the sides of the road. We finally hit 32 degrees Farenheit! Zero degrees Celcius! When we finally got to the peak, it was nearing the end of the day. Bear in mind that at this time of year, the days are shortening and it is getting dark earlier and earlier. So in a sense we were racing against time to get down from the highway before dark. This photo was taken at the highest point of the Highway, just before we started our descent again:




I suppose it is also timely to disclose that I had been stalked this entire day, from the time we reached Mount Washington till now. One of my dear classmates, who had evidently had a childhood deprived of any snowball fights, had taken every opportunity to make snowballs. And I am sorry to say that his primary target was yours truly. One would have thought that a grown man (and supposedly a gentleman at that) would never have dreamt of hitting a lady with a snowball. He contended that he deliberately missed the first 2 times. But he definitely scored a hit with the last one (by the way, he threw it as I turned my back!). What especially riled me is that some of my other dear classmates saw it as no more than a photo opp! Or a video opp! Sigh. But I want to emphasise that I definitely turned the other cheek and did not engage in a snow fight with him.

Mount Washington - 2 Seasons in 1 Day

We decided to go on another driving weekend before we had to leave the country. The plan was to take the Kancamagus Highway, spend the night in North Conway, and then go up to Mount Washington the next day. We would end off at the Lakes the next day.

Unfortunately, it rained throughout the first day. The Kancamagus Highway was covered with clouds and mist. In such bad weather, there was not a thing to see. So we had no choice. We had to go shopping. So we went first to Tanger, and then to the North Conway outlets. Now I realise why North Conway is considered a shopping destination. It is full of outlets! But by the time we got there it was almost 5pm. Dark, dreary and rainy too. We did some shopping at the outlet and then found our hotel - Comfort Inn (again). In the dark, I did not realise that we were next to a pirate-themed mini-golf course. I suppose kids have to do something whilst parents shop.

That night, I checked the weather report. It was not good. It was snowing on Mount Washington and at Bretton Woods. And there were strong winds on the mountain - over 100 km/h. Undeterred, we set off the next morning. Soon, the scenery around us turned white in colour - from the mountain-tops down.

By the time we reached the Bretton Woods resort, all was white. A snow plough must have cleared the roads early but there were still snowdrifts on the side of the roads and the trees were covered with snow. Even the signs were covered with snow - completely useless!

We drove carefully to the cog railway, only to find out that it was only travelling one-third of the way up the mountain because of bad weather (the winds were still blowing) and we would have to pay half the price. And, that the mist and fog enshrouding the mountain meant that we would not be able to see anything anyway. Unsurprisingly we decided to give it a miss. So we drove back down to North Conway.

It was a beautiful drive, past snow-covered trees, mountains, and a waterfall or two. Truly, a winter wonderland of water, snow and ice. But it was cold too! We were watching the temperature gauge in the car and it was pretty much 32 degrees Farenheit also known as Zero degrees celcius outside. And there we were walking out in (essentially) fall clothing.

But by the time we got back to Intervale (between Bretton Woods and North Conway) it had turned back to fall. The bright blue sky, the greens and reds of the trees made the snow and ice seem very far away. We had a quick lunch at a burger joint in Intervale and proceeded to retrace our route through the Kancamagus Highway in the hope that this time round, we could catch a glimpse of the beautiful scenery.