In the Streets of Mexico City

With 24 million people, Mexico City is one of the largest cities in the world. It is also one of the most ancient in the North America (founded in 1325, well before Columbus). But when we first arrived, about 10pm in the evening, the street outside our hostel was dark and deserted. Little did I know that the next morning, it would transform itself to part of one of the largest street markets that I have seen.

Around 8am each morning, people start to set up their stalls. Some have stands or tables on which they display their wares; others just put a tarpulin on the road. Anything and everything is for sale - accessories, clothes, bags, CDs/VCDs/DVDs, down to extension cords, towels, Christmas ornaments, lawn and house decorations and so on. We tried finding the borders of the market, but could not find the eastern border. There's a tremendous amount of buzz. People are calling out to customers, shouting at others to get out of the way and so on. And the traffic is trying to get through. Yes, traffic. What I'm still not clear about is whether there are any rules as to which streets are closed to vehicles when the market starts. There were traffic lights, but there was plainly no way for any vehicle to make its way through the stalls and human traffic. Then there was the occasion when this chap who had set up shop in the middle of the street had to move when a truck came down. Somehow, the market had made its own rules.

A different set of rules applies to the hawkers outside the Catedral. Whilst the large street market seemed to cater to locals, the hawkers outside the catedral catered to tourists - craft items, t-shirts, little sombreros, etc etc. There were shoeshine booths and also a little bird which picks your fortune out from a box. They do a busy trade but every now and then, someone raises an alarm and the hawkers, in the blink of an eye, pack up their wares or throw a blanket over them. Then we see a policeman walking down the street. So evidently, it is not legal to peddle goods outside the catedral area. But it is all a wayang. As long as the policeman doesn't see the actual goods, or an actual sale taking place, then he ignores the bags of goods and the covered items. Once the policeman walks off, it all starts again.

In front of the Catedral is a huge square - the Zocalo. This used to be the ancient ceremonial centre of the Aztecs but it has now been turned into a large square, or the Zocalo. Performing groups in the square draw the crowds - such as this group of Aztec dancers here. There are also folk dances performed on a stage in a corner of the square. It turns out that this is a "soft sell" of the people in Oaxaca to win sympathy for their cause - turfing out the unpopular governor of the province. So whilst you're watching the dancers twirl around, someone thrusts a flier in your hand.

The protesters are everywhere. They have camped outside major national monuments such as the National Art Museum (mentioned earlier) and in the Alameda Central (a park). There was one group which occupies the pedestrian crossing once the traffic stops and only marches off once the green man turns red. Apparently, the protests go beyond Oaxaca province. The Presidential Election (in July) was won only very narrowly and the people are disputing the result. Now that I'm safely back in Singapore it is also time to reveal that some bombs went off the first day we were there. But these were in the dead of the night so no one was injured and they were at very specific targets. So we were really quite safe :-) Oh yes- forgot to add that that the protesters also apparently invaded the Catedral and disrupted a mass the Sunday I was there! (Not the mass I went to though. Not sure whether that was good or bad).

So that's what the streets of Mexico City are like. Full of people, full of action. More stray dogs than I've seen anywhere else. Men making cloth flowers on one side of the Catedral. Beggars, shoeshine booths, protesters, performers. Lots of hawkers and the occasional policeman. And of course us tourists. (Incidentally, I was taken for a local quite frequently until I said my favourite phrase, "no hablo espanol" which of course means I can't speak the language!).

The Place where the Gods Began - Mexico, Day 2 Part 2

We visited two pre-Hispanic sites during our one-day tour.

Our first stop, Tlatelolco ruins or what they now call the Plaza of the Three Cultures. There are the ruins of Tlatelolco, the Spanish church of Santiago Tlatelolco which stands next to it and finally the buildings of modern Mexico around the place. As mentioned before, Tlatelolco was a twin city to Tenochtitlan and was the commercial centre of the Aztec empire. Traders from all over would come to Tlatelolco bearing products from the Oaxaca area, the Mayan area and so on. However, much of it is probably covered up by modern Mexico today. The ruins we saw were again temple ruins, very similar to those of Templo Mayor in Mexico City. I guess the biggest buildings around were the temples themselves, and it was hard to get rid of them completely whilst the stone from smaller buildings could be easily carted away. We again saw how the pyramid builders operated - building a larger pyramid over a smaller one in order to enlarge the size of their temple. Our guide showed us one altar and told us that when it was excavated, there were about 170 skulls found with a hole punched through the cranium. They were probably strung together at that point for display. The last battles between the Aztec and the Spanish were fought at Tlatelolco, and it was here the Spanish empire came to an end. The plaza was also the place where a massacre of students took place in 1968. They were protesting (Mexicans love protests, I find) against the conditions of the day (whatever they were). The government did not want disturbances just before the Olympic Games took place and so they shot the students! Bizarre logic.

After Tlatelolco we went to the Guadalupe shrine (see last post) and then to a handicraft factory outlet. This was quite fun because we got to try the local tequila and try out corn bread with cactus (sans the spikes) and cheese topping. Aztec food?

We then went on for our pyramid climbing expedition. Now, the Aztecs did not actually build the Teotihuacan complex. It had been built many many years earlier by a people now unknown. The Aztecs found the complex and found it so impressive, that they thought it must have been made by the Gods. So they called it “Teotihuacan”, or “the Place of the Gods”. It is a huge complex, with three pyramid structures and several temples all linked by this long “Avenue of the Dead” (apparently the Aztecs thought the buildings alongside were tombs). Just as was the case for Templo Mayor and Tlatelco, the pyramids were built in layers one on top of the other. And this meant that they covered up a lot of other things as well. So the starting point for the tour is a small museum displaying what archaeologists dug up out of interior of the Pyramid of the Moon. Other artefacts are displayed at the National Museum of Anthropology (where we went on Day 3). We visited the museum and after that started pyramid climbing.

The first pyramid was the pyramid of Quetzalcoatl and Tlaloc. Quetzalcoatl is the feathered serpent, thus symbolising the union between earth and sky. In the Aztec mythology, he taught the Aztecs about growing corn, about pottery and astronomy (their calendar). Tlaloc is the rain God, i.e. symbolising water. Apparently they are paired together in many representations. Aztecs believe in the duality of all things - fire and water, rain and earth, sun and moon. See video here for approach to the pyramid.

We then walked down the Avenue of the Dead to the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon. Now, in case anyone is labouring under any illusion that this is a nice, pleasant stroll, the Avenue of the Dead is not a straight road per se. There are a series of raised quadrangles which we have to climb up and down. I tried walking around one side only to see our guide lead us to the other side where she showed us some Jaguar heads.

The Sun pyramid is the highest of the 3 and it had rather steep stairs to clamber up. Anyway, I am pleased to say I did it! Panted a lot but that was probably the altitude, yah? The Pyramid of the Sun is shorter than the pyramid of Cheops in Egypt but has the same base and is apparently the third highest in the world. The view from the top is great except that it takes a lot to get there. I didn't climb up the Pyramid of the Moon. Felt that I had proved myself :-) And you don't get the best view of the pyramid on the pyramid itself, right? Not all in our group climbed up either - there were these Brit girls who happily sat at the bottom of the pyramid admiring the view too.

Also, spent some time wandering around the Temple of Quetzalpapalotl, or the temple of the plumed butterfly. It is a well preserved (at least I hope it is well preserved) little temple with beautifully carved columns. It was quiet and peaceful especially with the sun slanting in. Also visited this Palace of the Jaguars, where there are some beautifully preserved murals.

There are also many, many souvenir sellers around the Teotihuacan complex hawking little obsidian statues, silver jewellery, handwoven cloth etc etc - essentially the same stuff as at the handicraft museum but at a fraction of the price. Hmmmm...... I did buy something so as to average down my costs but when I compared it to the stuff in the little shops near the exit to the site, it seemed fairly comparable. Guess I didn't get a great bargain but at least I didn't get ripped off.

All in all, I find the story of Teotihuacan fascinating - how this people came so long ago to build these pyramids that lasted so long that those who came after them marvelled at their splendour. Sometimes the works of men do persist, after all.

See my Multiply page (link on left) for more panoramic views of Teotihuacan. The link to Flickr photos is here.

Our Lady of Guadalupe - Mexico, Day 2 Pt 1

Today we went on a 1-day tour to the ruins of Tlatelolco, the Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe and to the pyramids of Teotihuacan. It was the high point of our trip to Mexico, both literally and figuratively. Oh yes, it also featured a shot of tequila and a handicraft factory outlet so there were indeed many different types of 'highs'. I'm going to alter the chronological flow of events now, so that I can talk about the Aztec stuff separately from the Catholic stuff, and go straight to our visit at the shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

I must say I was more than a little excited at the prospect of visiting the shrine. The story is that Our Lady appeared to an Aztec peasant, Juan Diego. This was some 10 years after the Spanish conquest. He went to a priest and told him the story but of course the priest didn't believe him. Juan Diego asked our Lady for a sign and she told him to pick some roses which had miraculously appeared on a bush. He picked the roses, put them in his poncho and then went to the priest. He shook the roses out to show the priest and lo and behold, there on the poncho was an image of the apparition he had seen:

(FYI, I did photoshop this but it still isn't too good. Other photos can be found here.)

Mary appears with the rays of the sun about her, the moon beneath her feet and stars on her cloak. This was interpreted very positively by the Aztecs - the duality of sun and moon, day and night is important to them culturally - and apparently this played a big part in their acceptance of Catholicism (with Aztec characteristics). That the hill she made her appearance on was already sacred to the Aztecs helped too.

This tradition of special reverence for our Lady of Guadalupe is still very much present in Mexico today. On the way to the shrine, we saw a procession of pilgrims walking to the basilica. (We would later see them entering the church - see photo.) We got to the shrine itself soon after. It is a really huge complex, with a gigantic square with the new basilica at one end, and the old basilica along the adjacent side. The old basilica was in danger of falling over, so they built the new one and took some some remedial action on the old building.

The new Basilica is large - it seats some 8,000 people and holds masses every hour of the day. Of course, being on a conducted tour I could not go to mass so had to say a short prayer instead. On the outer wall of the basilica, there is a special altar which overlooks the square. This is used when mass is said in the square on special occasions - which includes Pope John Paul II's masses when he visted Mexico City. (There is a statue of the Pope in one corner of the Square, together with his Mobile Van.) Pilgrims (and tourists) were walking into the Basilica but there were a few who were going in on their knees - ow. The square is made partly of nice smooth stones (I think granite) but a lot of it is just rather rough looking paving stones.

Going into the Basilica, the poncho with the image of Our Lady is hung behind the altar. But, (and I think this is quite ingenious) there is a pathway which goes below the image and from here, looking up, the image is quite clearly visible. Of course, close scrutiny is not possible, especially as there are a few short travelators just at that point to keep the flow of people going, or so they can concentrate on their prayers. I was too busy trying to take photos on the travelator to do anything else.

We then visited the old Basilica (where I saw the Day of the Dead display). The columns have all been reinforced, and there is a lot of metal strutting inside the building. We then went to the gardens around the basilica, and our guide pointed out where the original apparitions to Juan Diego were supposed to have taken place. It is really a peaceful, quiet area. She then gave us about 20 minutes or so free time which I spent trying to find nice souvenirs to bring back so I can share the whole experience with others. Not so easy as it seems - the place has a lot of rather cheap looking stuff. So this is the sacrifice which I had personally to make - go shopping instead of taking the opportunity to spend in quiet prayer (and I do mean this, for all the doubters out there) ! But I felt quite happy after our visit and hopefully that was God's grace at work rather than the feeling of satisfaction at being able to get something halfway decent :-)

In the Historic Centre - Mexico, Day 1

Did I mention previously that our hostel has a tie-up with Mexbus, a tour company? So today we went on a free tour of the Historical Centre of Mexico, i.e. our neighbourhood. We started off in front of this huge map of the area in the pre-Hispanic times. There were two major cities in the area, Tenochtitlan and Tlatelolco. Tenochtitlan was the political and military centre of the Aztec world and Tlatelolco the economic centre. The two cities were on an island in the middle of a lake. After the Spanish conquered the Aztec, they started filling in the lake and Mexico City expanded on this reclaimed land. The Spanish also pulled down all the Aztec temples and used the stones to build churches next to the temple. But the churches are so heavy that they are now sinking into the earth... requiring a lot of conservation effort. Divine retribution?

The Aztecs too had problems with their temples sinking into the earth. But they had a simple solution for that. Just build another temple over it. Remember, they were pyramid builders. So what you see on top is just the outermost layer, on top of a much older structure. There is a huge excavation site just next to the Catedral, of the Aztec Templo Mayor (Great Temple). The inner walls of the older pyramids are exposed to view here. We visited the site and the accompanying museum after the tour. There is this a macabre altar with human skulls all around it. That would have been the altar of the God of War.


Our next stop was the National Palace, where we were introduced to the murals of the famous Mexican painter, Diego Rivera. He has a series of murals up one staircase and down one wall of one of the palace courtyards. He was a communist and definitely anti-Spanish, anti-Catholic, so the Aztecs look like poor victimised people and Cortes and the Catholic church like murdering conquerors, making conversions by the sword. Truth to tell, the behaviour of the Spanish was also horribly cruel but they must have felt that anything was better than a religion that cut out the hearts of its adherents. Talk about relative moralities! Our guide (Leo) took us through the paintings in detail - Diego's prejudices aside, they also presented a lot of information about the pre-Hispanic world. There was a picture showing some of the religious rituals - playing a ball game called pelota; the Voladores de Paplanta or the Paplanta flyers. None of the more grisly rituals like cutting out hearts, although Leo told us that sometimes the victors of the ball games got the knife. Sacrificing the lives of some people, would ensure the survival and prosperity of the rest. Or, as someone in our group said, "life, for life." In one corner of the National Palace was a little display from the Day of the Dead celebrations. In one way, the culture of the Aztecs is still alive and well. Day of the Dead displays feature skeletons (or Katrinas) dressed up in fancy outfits, shrines and altars feature more skulls (we were to see a fine example at the old basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe the following day). Its got this very tribalistic feel to it.

We next stopped over at the Catedral. I was amazed at the number of masses. There must have been about 8-9 altogether, 4-5 in the morning and another 4 in the evening. I went to the 5pm mass later that day. The Catedral itself is ornate. The first thing we saw was a huge chapel just inside the catedral, all covered in gold leaf. The main alter itself has tall gold-leaf covered columns on each side. I suppose this is after the Spanish style, with Mexican overtones. There were two large pipe organs. One is from Spain, the other Mexican-made. The Mexicans also have an interesting custom. There was a picture of our Lady on one of the walls with all these medals, and little photos stuck around the frame. Apparently, if someone has survived a brush with death, or recovered from a serious illness, the practice is to put up one of these little medallions or trinkets on the frame as a form of thanksgiving.

We then went on to view various buildings in the historic part of Mexico - the building in which the Spanish Inquisition was held (they brought it over from Spain), the Post Office building, the Opera House and the National Art Museum. The tour ended after that and we then went off on our own. We went back to the Art Museum, and had to enter by the back entrance because the front was being blocked by the group of Oaxacan protesters who were camping in the square just outside the museum. The museum itself (and this is true for all the Mexican museums we visited) was excellent. Of course some English explanations of the works would have been nice but this is a Spanish speaking country, after all.

We ended off our day with a tour around the ruins of Templo Mayor (as mentioned earlier). It is really an absorbing archaeological site and it is incredible to think that this was just one small part - and around and below me lie far more of the ancient city of Tenochtitlan.

Photos from Mexico Day 1 here! Day 2- will feature visit to Teotihuacan (and more pyramids).

Hola! Mexico!

So, here I am in Mexico City. Flew in from Washington D.C. on Saturday evening. It was quite a tiring flight. First of all, the bus rode to Dulles airport from near our hotel took half an hour longer than expected - the bus driver hadn't a clue what he was doing and got lost repeatedly! I was napping happily and so didn't realise what was going on but at some point the passengers started yelling, "you're going the wrong way!" and "some of us have jobs we could lose because of this!". He finally got us to the terminal and these angry passengers stormed off threatening to complain. Did a self-check in at departure - the check-in staff just make sure our baggage isn't overweight and counts the number of bags we have. We then have to lug our baggage to the screening station where the chappie hauling bags told me "go to the other end and watch your bag drop down the chute, then you can go off." Not very reassuring. Finally of course at the security clearance, we find we have been randomly assigned for more thorough screening! Wonderful. Anyway the journey and checkin process took 2.5 hours in all so it was fortunate we gave a lot of time.

Arrived at Mexico City at about 10.30pm DC time and 9.30pm Mexico time. Finally checked in and found that our Hostal Moneda is indeed a true backpacker hostel... strictly no toiletries, not even a tumbler for my toothbrush and towels like sackcloth (good thing I brought my own) and worst of all no hairdryer.

Having said that, the hostel grows on one. There is breakfast and dinner provided (but this is a sort of risky business, yesterday was fine but tonight's food is somewhat scanty - good thing I have a spare banana) and there are tours going out from the hostel. There is also of course free internet access. I'm typing in this blog from one of the terminals. Meals are served on the roof of the Hostal.

It has a great view of the Catedral Metropolitan. The Catedral is lit up at night and I can see it every time I turn my head to the right. There is an open bar so I have a nice bottle of Corona beer next to me and some Mexican music in the background. As I said, it grows on one.

The patrons of this place are mainly European - not sure why. There are a number of Brits, Germans, etc. Not sure about the rest. We meet each other on the conducted tours and then at meals. We don't exchange names, it is really the backpacker life indeed.

Washington, D.C. - The Nation's Capital

In DC, it's all government, museums and memorials. We stayed in the middle of all these federal departments which is not much fun after the sun has set (and also not too safe, according to my sources). Apparently its because Residence Inn is the only one with kitchens and dinner provided. Well, at least the dinner was better than that in Residence Inn Cambridge. But I'd rather be a little nearer the centre of action rather than next to the Trade Commission.

Our programme in DC focused on visits largely to various federal departments, one aide to a Senator and visits to the World Bank and an NGO (with links to KSG). We also had dinner with Amb Chan and met Derwin Pereira of ST (I learnt that he had studied at the LSE and graduated one year after me). But the meetings were not particularly memorable. The folks we met were relatively senior (at the Asst Secretary level) but some didn't spout anything but the party line, particularly the political appointees. The professional diplomats at the State Department were more willing to be open and frank by comparison and didn't treat us as though we were schoolchildren. It was interesting to get a sense of the type of people there and to see how they perceived us as a group (clearly not that important).

But there were plus points too. One memorable moment was our visit to the Pentagon. The official hosting our visit told us that he had been sitting in the very room we were in when the airplane hit. No one knew what had happened but they evacuated the room and left the building. Only then did his group realise what had happened. We also visited the memorial at the portion of the Pentagon which was hit. It is a small quiet room with panels listing the victims and a book with a page for each victim - both in the Pentagon and in the plane which hit the building. There is a small chapel next to it as well. The Pentagon itself is a huge complex. There is a courtyard in the centre of the complex and a building right in the centre of the courtyard. The rumour (so our guide told us) was that in the midst of the Cold War, the Soviets were very suspicious as to why there were so many people entering and leaving the building and so trained one of their missiles to hit the structure - which was, of course, the hotdog stand.

We also met one of John Kerry's aides. It was a good session - I thought he handled our questions well eg he threw back questions for us to respond to besides just answering what we asked him. But later that day Kerry made a rather tactless statement to some schoolchildren that if they didn't learn their lessons well they would end up in Iraq. Kerry had to apologise and say he didn't mean to insult US troops in Iraq, and that the original script had a line saying, "just ask President Bush", which he had omitted. But why? Hmm. After making such a statement apparently some candidates told Kerry not to campaign with them any more. Not that they had to worry too much, the Democrats were hot this time round. Other than this chap, we didn't meet anyone else from the legislative side of the US government. Apparently it was because of the elections - everyone is campaigning. I am not sure what alternatives there could have been - perhaps we could have met journalists, and people from other think tanks? Anyway, I didn't really mind too much that we didn't have a packed program. I spent the first three days spending my spare time finishing my last assignment (rather disappointed with it even so) so any extra time was beneficial to me.

But DC in general is really the US in glorified, institutional terms. We visited the executive, legislature and (for some of us) even the judiciary (saw all 9 Supreme Court Judges in action!). Also the National Archives where the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution are kept. Their state buildings are pretty grand and imposing (all that marble!), in very classical architectural styles. It reflects the great pride Americans have in their institutions, and the famous check-and-balance system of government. I frankly think that there could be a few less checks to achieve the same level of balance but well, apparently the Americans like it that way.

We also got a chance to observe the US in the run-up to the congressional elections (held on Nov 6, the week after we were in DC). Massachussets is such a Democrat stronghold that most of the Republican campaigning is perfunctory in nature - there was only a rather vicious and nasty campaign over the Governor job. In DC, on the other hand, numerous TV ads, for Senator/Governor in both Virginia and Maryland flooded our TV screens. And instead of reading the rather parochial Boston Globe, we got the Washington Post which has far more analysis and reported more broadly on the elections as a whole rather than on a single race.

The DC field trip marked the end of our official stay in the US. In a sense it has been interesting living in closer proximity to my classmates and I certainly know a few of them a little better than before.

Just another Sunday mass

Yesterday evening we went for mass at the Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception. I rather enjoyed the sermon which talked about how we all like keeping things private - including our faith. Why do Catholics do that? Is it because we don't know enough about our faith, or we do not exactly what we believe or whether we believe it? Or do we lack courage? Courage needs to be practiced. If we say something once, it is easier to say it again and again later on. If we believe in our faith, we will want to shout it out for all to hear.

Some of my Indian classmates went to mass. Now one of them is a dapper Indian gentleman who is slightly dimensionally challenged (read a little short and plump). He sat in between the two Filipino ladies and was very happy when they hugged him at the sign of peace. I had to restrain him from going to communion though.

After mass, we visited the shrine itself under the basilica, and the crypt church. The crypt church is a massive underground complex in itself. It is heavily vaulted (supposed to be reminiscent of the catacombs of the early church) and around the edges are many individual chapels and shrines to Mary as she has manifested herself around the world, eg Our Lady of Health, Mary at Lavang, Vietnam, and so on. Each shrine is decorated and presented in different styles. Here is the Mary of Lavang, which I took to show my Vietnamese classmate:

Following mass, we went for dinner at my Filipina classmate's colleague's home. It was nice to be in someone's home after so long in an impersonal hotel room. When we left, our hostess gave us each a hug - which made it 3 in one day for my dear classmate :-)