Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Flickr Stats


Installation Art
Originally uploaded by Taking5
Flickr recently launched a new stats feature (Flickr Stats) which summarises the total number of views received over the last day/week/forever and includes a time trend. It is quite addictive for view junkies like myself. I get to see the total number of views, and how these views came about (eg through flickr, some search engine, or whatever). Sadly, I note that there have been a total of two (2) views which have come through this blog page. I guess that is a reflection of how often this blog is read, sigh.

Sometimes it yields surprises too. The accompanying photo, "installation art", was taken some time back and had been getting zero views per day for the longest time. Then just a few days ago, it hit 256 views over 2 days! I was mystified. Apparently the views came through the Yahoo! Singapore home page but by the time I found out and got around to check, the page had presumably been updated as I could not find my photo there.

I suppose such links are the reason why a prevous photo on Ayam Penyet (if you want to see this photo, go to my Flickr page :-) and look under the "Food" set) also had a sudden jump in views. It is still my second most viewed photo on Flickr, after my photo of Sleeping Smee.

But both photos have mostly reverted to their previous low activity status. Such is the fleeting nature of internet fame!

Saturday, December 22, 2007

Self-Published!

Ok, I admit it. I have jumped on the self-publishing bandwagon. It started off innocuously enough, with photobooks based on my travels to the US and Mexico. This was done using QOOP, an on-line publishing dot.com which is linked to Flickr. QOOP also provides for blog publishing - only not from Blogger. I was disappointed...

Then I discovered Blurb. Blurb is another on-line publisher and it allows printing from Blogger! All I had to do was download the software, and "slurp" my blog into the book. So I tried it out. In practice, it was more difficult than I anticipated. The software is reasonably easy to use but this version is in the beta stage and so it crashes frequently - extremely irritating ! Nonetheless one persevered...

The blog book took some time to do. I added photos, formatted pages, inserted an extra entry (which I never got around to doing the last time). Changed the font size, page by page (now you know why it is not the most user-friendly piece of software).

So I decided to switch course and did a short little book of cat poems and photos. This had the added advantage of letting me try out the Blurb service without incurring the higher costs of my blog book. My cat book is primarily a photo book with little poems (called "catteral") thrown in because I wanted to talk about the cats. Sent it off and about a month later - voila! It appeared on my doorstep, thus:










Need I say I am enraptured by my own creative product? Blurb promises "bookshop standard" printing, and I agree that it delivers. Forgotten were all the irritations, the times when the font size would not change, the times when the desired page format was not available...

I printed two copies of the book, one for myself and one for an appreciative reader. Well, my mother is not really an appreciative reader (she does not think much of the poems) but she rather likes the photos of our little darlings and she took it immediately. The total cost of printing and publishing: about US$40 or about US$20 per book. Pretty expensive, but this is (as my mother likes to say) a very limited edition!

I have since finished my blog book (whilst waiting for "Catteral" to arrive) and sent it off for printing; on the computer now is my travel journal for Siem Reap. With 2 books under my belt, I am now becoming more adventurous in terms of layout and colour schemes. And definitely there will be one other interested reader for this book!

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Orlando joins the family


Camera-shy
Originally uploaded by Taking5

We have a fourth cat in the house!

Just before I went to Siem Reap, my mother found a little orange kitten in the driveway. Rather, she heard it squealing as it got caught between the gate post and the electronically opened gate. She ran out, picked it up, washed it, fed it and then we put it up for adoption.

My friend expressed interest. My mother was quite happy when her landlord said no. Another friend was interested - but her mother gave it the thumbs down. Then my sister's friend expressed interest, and with no obstacles in the way, my mother started coming up up with flimsy excuses.

So we decided to keep him. Here he is, small, orange and extremely curious about black objects with protruding parts being stuck in his face. He is an audacious, confident little kitten! He gets on well with Winky and Dinky, jumping on them, wrestling with them, edging them out of the way when it's time to eat. And they tolerate him doing all these things! Amazing. My sweet tempered boys indeed.

Sunday, December 02, 2007

Day 4: Farewell to Angkor

Our short visit to Siem Reap was indeed a memorable one. I managed to reduce the level of my ignorance about the history of the Indo-China region. It is also sobering to think that of the great Khmer empire, little remains today except these ancient monuments, which had been lost in the jungle not so long ago.


It is difficult to judge from Siem Reap the overall progress of modern Cambodia. After all, Siem Reap is very much the showpiece for tourists coming to Cambodia. The Khmer Rouge also continue to cast a shadow of Cambodia's history. Just before our visit, the announcement was made that the Khmer Rouge former head of state Khieu Samphan had been arrested for his part in the genocide of so many Cambodians.

But for a country which had been ripped apart by war, and which was known primarily for its killing fields, the towers of Angkor Wat enable Cambodia to present a new face to the world. This is a country making a new beginning.



Thursday, November 29, 2007

Day 3: On the Lake

Today we stopped looking at temples and went out to Tonle Sap lake instead. Tonle Sap lake is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. Its size varies considerably, from about 2,500 sq km at the smallest to 12,000 sq km at its largest. Why the huge difference? The Siem Reap tourist guide says that in the dry season, the lake drains into the Tonle Sap river which then runs into the Mekong. But in the wet season, the Mekong becomes so large that it overflows, and fills Tonle Sap instead. So in the dry season, farmers get to cover the Tonle Sap valley with rice fields. In the wet season, they retreat to their tall houses and go fishing instead.


Our visit to Tonle Sap was really to look at the floating village at Chong Khneas. Our guide told us that the families on the lake included both ethnic Cambodians, as well as Vietnamese. These fishermen/farmers do not exactly lead the normal life of most Cambodians (most do not, after all, live in boats), but it is definitely more typical of Cambodia than the tourist-oriented world of Siem Reap. Although, there is a tourist stop in the village which allows the visitor to look at the sea life which used to populate the lake - various species of fish, eels, and crocodiles. Whilst there are still fish in the lake, many species have been fished out and there are only a few specimens left. As for the crocs, only the ones in the pen for visitor viewing are around. I don't think they are exactly missed.


There are various facilities on the lake- not just homes. I saw a school, a children's playing area and a Catholic church. And lake village life is active. Boats selling provisions or vegetables ply their way from boathouse to boathouse. We saw the fishermen clearing their nets of fish, to be sold in the market later in the day. Children swim in the water (nearest the tourist stop) or paddle around in gigantic basins.

It is a tough life, and a simple one.

Ironically, directly after this visit to Tonle Sap lake, we had a very nice Khmer lunch at a top restaurant (Chao Praya) in Siem Reap. One thing about visiting a rice-producing country - the rice here has always been very good! Large, fragrant grains. So good you can eat it on its own or with only a little bit of curry gravy. Fortunately for us, we had far more things to eat it with. But for the villagers living on the lakeside, this would probably not be anywhere near their normal fare.

Day 2: The Face of Buddha

Our second day in Siem Reap was all temple-viewing. We started off at 8.30am and met our tour guide, Dara. Somehow the majority of tour guides here in Siem Reap are men.

Our first stop of the day was at the South Gate of Angkor Thom, the city of the great King Jayavarman VII, the temple builder extraordinaire. Anything with a tower with four Buddha faces on it - likely it was built by good old J the VII. But the gate itself was very impressive. It is reached by a causeway over a moat with a row of demons lining the right of the bridge, and a row of gods lining the left, all holding the naga serpent. According to the guidebook, it is actually a representation of the churning of the sea of milk, from the Hindu mythologies. Some of the statues lost their heads over the years and through the war but most have been replaced. It is quite easy to tell the difference. But apparently the thieves will steal the new heads too.

Passing through the gate, we went to the Bayon temple. Frankly, if we are talking about the Hindu conception of the universe, with the holy Mount Meru surrounded by the mountain ranges, then Bayon is probably the most mountainous of them all (including Angkor Wat which is more restrained and refined). It is a truly imposing monument. Tower upon tower, each building up to the topmost tower at the peak. And all the towers have the four faces of the Buddha on them - so we are surrounded by these serene faces with smiles so inscrutable that they could have taught the Mona Lisa a thing or two. But the temple itself was full of visitors from all over the world, all making this the first stop of their temple-hopping day. Each group had their own guide, speaking to them in English, Chinese, Japanese and French. It was interesting to see that the French-speaking guides tended to be the older Cambodians. We had to take our turn to go and look at the bas-reliefs, and to move along the galleries, and to go up to the top of the temple where we have to take turns to take photographs at the most scenic spots.

We went next to explore the series of monuments by the Bayon temple. First, the Baphoun temple-mountain, which would have required us to climb up a lot of steps to the top of the base for the temple itself. The temple was being restored, with each of the stones removed, numbered and set aside for subsequent replacement. (That's the auld anastylosis technique). Its amazing to think that in the past it was human hands and backs which had to place each block in place whilst now the work is being done by cranes.

The Terrace of Elephants, the Terrace of the Leper King and the old Royal Palace (plus their bathing pools) followed. Then we went back to town for lunch. It was at a Chinese restaurant! Alas, the typical Singapore tourist's penchant for Chinese food caught up with us. It was a fairly tasty meal nonetheless.

We went next to Ta Prom. This was truly exciting, because it gave a good sense of how nature slowly took over the old temples over the years. Ta Prom was built by King J VII and thus has many architectural similarities to Banteay Kdei and the Bayon. But huge strangler figs and silk-cotton trees (as shown in the photo) have slowly been growing around and on top of the buildings. The massive roots of these gigantic trees had pierced through the roofs and walls of the ancient temples such that they had become part of the fabric of the building. Tree and building now require each other to exist - when one falls, so could the other. Apparently this was the temple where a famous scene from "Lara Croft: Tomb Raider" was filmed. So we went to the spot and yes, there were people queuing up there to get their photo taken as well (I did!).

Finally, we went to Angkor Wat. Now some people think of just the five towers when they go to Angkor Wat and that picture postcard view of the towers reflected in the lake. In reality, Angkor Wat is a much larger complex. To get to the innermost shrine (the 5 towers), we crossed the causeway over the moat, through a first set of city walls, down another road and past two pools (these were people to bathe in and wash away their sins before going further into the temple). Then we came to the main temple itself. Now as mentioned before, think of this as a wedding cake of about three tiers. As you move further up and further in (through the galleries of bas-reliefs, past more pools, past galleries of Buddha statues, past libraries) the closer you get closer to the holiest of holies, the innermost tall towers of Angkor Wat. This innermost shrine is again like a temple-mountain in itself - the pilgrim must climb these very steep and narrow stairs to reach his final destination - the shrine at the top of the stairs.

Yesterday's pilgrim, today's tourist. We were (more than anything) relieved to find that the topmost shrine was temporarily closed for maintenance and to build a new staircase (with a less steep incline) over one set of the old staircases to the shrine.

After leaving Angkor Wat, we were pretty exhausted. But there was still one more temple mountain to see, this one perched on a true mountain (or rather, a hill). We clambered slowly and painfully up the hill. There is an elephant ride available for the less active but at US$15 per pax, it was just a bit too expensive. Finally we reached the temple on the top only to realise that we needed to climb up yet another set of steps to reach the shrine on top of the temple base. Let me just say we finally managed it. But unfortunately, the cool of the evening meant that there were slight mists in the air. The view of Angkor Wat was not clear, and there was to be no glorious sunset that evening. So we clambered down again.

We ended off the day with a foot massage - wonderful - and dinner. Totally exhausted, we got back and had an early night.
Here's the Flickr link again for those who want to look at photos.

Sunday, November 25, 2007

An interlude: in memorium

During our plane journey to Siem Reap, the Cambodian gentleman sitting next to us asked if we would be also going to Phnom Penh, for the water festival there. We said we were not and thought no more about it. During our second day in Cambodia, we visited the Bayon Temple where there is a massive frieze depicting great battle between the Khmers and the foreign invaders, the Chams. The Khmers won this battle on the Tonle Sap lake. Since then, they have been commemorating the event during this water festival, including a race on the Tonle Sap River near Phnom Penh, with a minor celebration in Siem Reap itself.

Little did I know, when I was composing yesterday's posting on Day 1 of our visit, that the Singapore Dragon Race team, competing in the water festival races, had met with a tragic accident earlier in the day. This accident took place after the race as the team was returning to shore. An unexpected current caused their boat to capsize, and 5 of the 22 member team drowned in the Tonle Sap River. So this post is in their memory - a virtual minute of silence, if you will. May they rest in peace.

Starting the Day Right...

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