One day in Wuhan (武汉)

Yellow Crane Tower, Wuhan

I've been struggling a bit with this post.  Just over a month after I had visited the city, news started emerging of a number of unusual pneumonia cases emerging.  Yes, I visited China and went to Wuhan in mid-November, as the start of my cruise through the magnificent Three Gorges of China.    And at end December, China would officially report the news that a new disease, what would become known as COVID-19, had struck the city.

In the end, I've decided to proceed.  I'm not trivialising the seriousness of the disease which has (to date) struck tens of thousands, and killed significant numbers as well, both in China and around the world.  But I think that others deserve to know that this is still a lovely city visit, particularly in November, and that the area has indeed so much to offer tourists. And so, I will proceed to recount my visit there.

Mine was not a long visit - just around a week.  After arriving late the previous night, we spent a full day in Wuhan, then took the train to Yichang the next morning where we boarded the Century Legend which took us down the Yangtze River, to Chongqing City. So, if you ever want a one-day leisurely itinerary for Wuhan, do read on.  But if you have a longer stay, you may want to read more here.

One aspect of life in China which we wanted to experience was its "cashless society", where all the hawkers had their own QR code for WeChat Pay or AliPay.  Just a few weeks before our departure, these two ubiquitous payment apps had extended their services to foreign tourists.  In the event, it was not possible to use WeChat Pay but fortunately the AliPay payment service was quite easy to figure out and we could use it to also pay taxi drivers, and to link up AliPay to DiDi (the Uber of China), so we could also hail and pay our taxi drivers via DiDi.

Re Gan Mian and Lotus Root Soup

We used DiDi for the first time when taking the taxi for our breakfast in Hubu Alley, the famed street food alley of Wuhan.  I have to admit though, that by the time we made it there, it was really more like our brunch.  We had a bowl each of Re Gan Mian (热干面), which literally translates into spicy dry noodle dish.  The sauce is served on top of the noodles, with a sprinkling of spring onions on top.  I also got some minced pork with mine.  We had this with lotus root and pork bone soup, and a serving of "Dou Pi" which came a little later.  Dou Pi is essentially rice wrapped in layers of egg, with diced beancurd and I think more minced pork within.  It was all quite tasty but the next day we walked around the corner from our hotel and found a number of little eating stalls and what we in Singapore would call coffee shops, all full of Wuhan residents eating their breakfast before going to work.  We had quite a quick, tasty meal of chee cheong fun, a prata-like dough pancake and some dumplings, washed down with soya milk.  Much better value for money and much more convenient.

The immortal and the crane over the tower

After our brunch, we made our way to the the Yellow Crane Tower (黄鹤楼), a very famous historical site here in Wuhan.   It's one of the "Four Famous Towers" of China, originally built for military use on the top of a hill where it has a commanding view of the region and the river running through the city.    The building is not the original tower; it has actually been rebuilt a few times but apparently a tower has been on this site ever since around 220AD. 

Entering the tower, we admired this large wall mural just inside.  It tells the story of how the tower originally came to be built.  Briefly, a wine merchant, Xin, gave shelter (and wine) to a visiting monk.  Some tales indicate that the monk was actually an immortal come to earth in disguise!  Anyway, the monk visited repeatedly and every time Xin gave him food and shelter.  To show his gratitude, the monk painted a crane on the merchant's wall.  The painting was animated to show the crane dancing, bringing lots of visitors to the shop.  So Xin grew rich, and as a sign in turn of his gratitude built the tower.  The tower is also immortalised in the classic poetry of China, with the poets Cui Hao and Li Bai both writing about it.  Indeed, Cui Hao's poem is probably particularly apt - it tells how the crane has departed, leaving a city bereft, and the poet left far from his homeland.  I reproduce it here.

The pond in the compound of the Yellow Crane Tower

昔人已乘黄鹤去，此地空余黄鹤楼。
黄鹤一去不复返，白云千载空悠悠。
晴川历历汉阳树，芳草萋萋鹦鹉洲。
日暮乡关何处是？烟波江上使人愁。

After climbing all the way to the top of the tower and admiring the view, we made our way through the compound to the peaceful, scenic Chinese Garden adjacent to it.  The centrepiece of the garden is a large pond, surrounded by weeping willows.   A few fountains gush quietly in the centre.  To one side, a low wall is covered with the carved forms of cranes - flying, walking, and doing all sorts of things.  Following the example of the famous Tang poets, there is also a poetry gallery here, featuring two poems by Chairman Mao, housed in their own pavilion!

A double-sided embroidery screen

We spent quite some time in the Yellow Crane Tower and its surrounding compound, but we had one more stop to make on our 24-hour stopover in Wuhan, in Tan Hua Lin. 

Tan Hua Lin is also part of old Wuhan, but of a much more recent date.  It's like the "western quarter", where all the Europeans stayed.  Here there are a few churches, including a former Canossian convent, and western houses where the various European merchants and traders stayed.

Today, it is full of souvenir shops, art galleries, and embroidery shops.  Wuhan is one of the well known "schools" of embroidery in China (another one is Suzhou, for example).  The embroidery shops show beautiful exemplars of Wuhan embroidery.  These include huge framed pieces - either to hang on the wall or the beautiful double-sided screen which I have shown in the photo on the left.  Each stitch is like a brush stroke, so delicate and precise.  You can also buy small little embroidered bags or table screens.  Embroidery equipment is also on sale - my friend bought herself an embroidery frame, which she dismantled and carried around on her shoulder.  Myself, I was just glad to see that this area also had a few cat cafes!  Sadly we did not have time to make a longer stay in one of them.

We ended the day off with dinner, close to the hotel.  The next day, we would spend travelling - by train to Yichang, where we would then take a coach to the cruise ship which would take us to the next part of our journey, down the Yangtze River, and through the heart of China.

My Three Gorges Flickr album is here.

Goodbye 2019: looking for a brighter 2020

If I am honest with myself, 2019 was not a great year.  As I look back, there were highlights but most of the time it has been a lot of hard work without much time spent on personal growth and pursuit of individual interests and passions.  It’s no wonder that right now, I’m feeling like this:

But for the record’s sake, let me just list some of the key events this year:

• My dad’s Sister, my dear aunt, passed away in end February.  We miss her at our family events.  We missed her at Christmas and next CNY will be our first without her.  But we came together as a family during this time. Really sad also trying to pack up her belongings... ... only partially completed thus far.  

• A strong positive highlight of the year was going for a Papal mass and shaking Pope Francis’ hand.  He is my hero!  Going to St Peter’s Square at night was also a magical moment for me.  It’s beauty and serenity was soothing to the soul.  Coming back to Singapore, I was in time for the major event which my charity was organising. It was a very successful event, which made the hard work of the previous six months worth while.

• I also managed to tick “Three Gorges” off my Bucket List.  Haven’t had time to write it up, but sailing down the magnificent, mighty Yangtze River, the river running through Chinese history and culture, was indeed a wonderful experience.  

• As for the cats, it was a sad moment when Winky passed away so swiftly and subddenly.  I worry about them now that they are growing older.  Even Ariel has been with us for 7 years now!  

• Work wise, it has been intense.  I covered a colleague for the last six months of the year and (as mentioned) spent a considerable amount of time in the first six organising the major event for my charity.  I feel a sense of pride and satisfaction that I managed to get through the period reasonably well, but there is still so much work left undone.  

•  Baking wise, the oven function of my microwave cum convection oven broke down, just as I was trying to bake my mother’s birthday cake!  So I had to borrow the neighbour’s oven but the delay, I am convinced, affected the final quality of the cake :-(. One the plus side, I decided to take the plunge and bought a brand new oven.  

• Well it sort of goes without saying that with all this going on I didn’t have much time for thoughtful, reflective reading.  I hope that I can make a start on the book pile beside my bed, over the coming year.

So roll on 2020!  Looking forward to a brighter, more productive and fulfilling year ahead.

Papa Francesco and St Peter's Square at Night

I'm this close to Pope Francis!

This is a short post; mainly to keep track of the key events in my life which took place in 2019. I was privileged to be a participant in the Caritas Internationalis General Assembly held in May this year.  The GA opened with a Papal Mass celebrated by Pope Francis.  Definitely one of my Bucket List items! 

It was a wonderful experience, sitting there in the Basilica with Catholics from all over the world around me.  The Universal Church!

After mass, there was a reception and dinner.  We had the pleasure of walking back to our bus through St Peter's Square.  What a serene atmosphere it was, in the still and peace of the night.

A few days later, we had the additional honour of a Papal Audience.  Truly a moment to remember.

St Peter's Square at Night

Rome and the Romantic Poets

I visited Rome in May this year, for the first time since my pilgrimage 10 years ago.   Unfortunately, I didn't have much time for sight-seeing as the main purpose of my visit was to attend the one-in-four-years assembly which my Catholic charity has in Rome.

Temple of Aesculapius, Gardens of Villa Borghese

But I did get there one day earlier and managed to visit a few places I've not been to before - the grounds of the Villa Borghese, and the Keats-Shelley Museum.  They are quite near each other, and make quite a pleasant day's sightseeing.

The Villa Borghese was originally owned by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V, hence the name.  The Villa holds one of the top art collections in Rome - unfortunately I didn't realise I had to book well in advance to enter (something to note for future reference).  So I could only visit the Borghese Gardens, the park surrounding the Villa and itself one of the largest public parks in Rome.  The park is also the site of a  famous horse show arena, the Piazza di Siena, hence the statues of horses I saw there.  I didn't realise it but there was a famous horse show going on at the time - so the grounds were full of caravans and the like.

The Church of Trinita dei Monti

From the park, I took a slow walk to the Spanish steps.  The Spanish Steps are so named because the square they lead down to (Piazza di Spagna, or the Spanish Square) houses the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See which is still here today. It's one of the most famous squares/stairs in Rome, made famous by the movie, Roman Holiday starring none other than Audrey Hepburn.

But, the steps are really called Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti in Italian as they lead up to the Church of Trinità dei Monti.  The Italians have recently stopped visitors from sitting on these famous stairs but when I was there, the restrictions were not in place and it was a rather nice, happy atmosphere, of people sitting and chatting and taking in the atmosphere.

T he other strange little irony about this area is that this Spanish Square is practically the "English Quarter" of Rome!  The English loved Italy, attracted by the warm weather (so different from the rainy weather back home) and good food.  Many came here for the opportunity to study classical Rome and others to admire the architecture and art, and to be inspired by the glorious scenery.  So around this area are cafes such as  Cafe Grecco, the oldest coffee house in Rome where luminaries such as Byron and Goethe used to hang out.  Another English favourite was Babington's, an English tea room just on the left of the Spanish stairs (as you ascend the stairs).  It's been around since 1893!

John Keat's room

On the right of the Spanish steps is where John Keats stayed, and died.  This building is now the Keats-Shelley Museum, dedicated to the memory of Keats, Shelley and Byron (who lived across the square at No. 66). Since I occasionally fancy myself a poet I decided that this was where I would spend my precious afternoon in Rome.

Indeed, the tragedy of Keats' short life is preserved here in this little museum.  There are just a few rooms in this little museum - a main living area, and two bedrooms.  Keats' room holds his bed, a chest of drawers and his death mask beside his bed.

He was just 25 years old when he passed away of tuberculosis, convinced that he had not achieved anything in life.  His published works were few, and due to his ill-health, he could not marry the lady he loved, Fanny Brawne.  He was buried in the Protestant Cemetery in Rome.  As per his instruction, his name is not on the tombstone and it only states that "Here one lies whose name was writ on water", ie a name which doesn't leave a mark but is washed away as the water flows...

English Romantic Poets in Rome

Despite his own modest assessment of his worth, Keats today is regarded as one of the geniuses of English literature with his famous odes, such as Ode to a Nightingale, Ode to a Grecian Urn, and my favourite (which I have referred to already once on this blog), Ode to Autumn.

Sadly, the three Romantic poets all died young.  Percy Bysshe Shelley, Keats' good friend, drowned after the boat he was in floundered in a heavy storm.   He was just 29 years old.  Shelley's widow, Mary, is of course very famous in her own right thanks to her novel, Frankenstein.  In fact her creation is probably more famous than she is!

The last of the three, Lord Byron, or George Gordon Byron, died at the age of 36 years, from a disease caught whilst he was fighting for the Greeks in the Greek War of Independence.  For that he was considered a hero amongst the Greeks, a true Romantic who died for his ideals but whose memory lives amongst them still.

I came away reflecting about the transience of life.  To everything there is a season.  But truth, beauty, love of nature, freedom of expression, life and liberty, the importance of being true to oneself - these were indeed the externals which the Romantics stood for and whilst they passed away, their poetry lives on and their message with them.

Wee Willy Winky

Winky

Our dear Winky left us today, in the early hours of the morning.  It was a short illness - maybe about a week or so.  The vet thought it was pancreatis when we brought him in just Thursday evening, and gave a shot of antibiotics which was supposed to address the infection.  We didn't expect it to be so fast.  Just one week ago, he seemed perfectly fine.  Then a few days ago we noticed that he was listless, and off his food.  That was when we brought him in to the vet.

We have had our dear Winky ever since 2006 when he was a young kitten; he and his three siblings - Inky, Binky and Dinky.  Inky (all black) disappeared and Binky got hit by a car.  With only the two of them left, they were the closest of playmates.   Dinky lived with us until he died of cancer a few years ago.  And now, with Winky's departure, all four are indeed gone.

Winky loved his brother Dinky

Winky had all sorts of adorable and not-so-adorable habits.  He liked to read the newspaper, jumping up on our laps in the morning as we tried to catch up with the news.  He would come when called, jumping up on the sofa where he would snuggle next to us as we watched TV.  He was a needy cat, ensuring that we paid our dues of strokes and ear-rubs by digging a single claw in our leg until we complied. 

Winky catching up with the cat news

He was our original planking cat.  He loved lying on the cool granite floor of our house and would stretch himself out as much as he could.

Planking

Come Christmas-time, he was fascinated by the crib.  He would jump onto the cabinet where the crib was placed and lie in it.  Whilst it was sweet to see how God calls all creatures to Himself, we did not dare let Baby Jesus rest in his manger for fear that Winky would carry him off.

Winky looking for Baby Jesus

He also liked escaping and making little trips around the neighbourhood.  That's why we got him a collar so that at least people would know he was someone's cat and not a stray.  But as he grew older, he became more inclined to stay at home. 

Winky in his collar

He was a loving little cat, hiding his affection behind his impassive little mask of a face.  And now he is gone. 

We will miss him.

His photo gallery is here.

Sayonara to Kyoto

Yasaka-no-to Pagoda - off Ninen-zaka 

Reflecting on this trip to Kyoto, it was indeed a peaceful and reasonably paced holiday, despite the uncertain beginning.  We experienced different aspects of Kyoto - both the city as well as the surroundings:

• the old, historical and cultural heart of Kyoto - the Temples of Ginkakuji and Kinkakuji; Nijo Castle, and the meandering around Gion and the geisha district (including the Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka pedestrian streets); the Ukiyo-e Museum;
• the vibrant beat of modern Japanese culture (albeit through the eyes of Yayoi Kusama and the manga artists and Writers)
• the serenity of the Japanese countryside and village life in Miyama;
• the charm of two different markets - Nishiki market and the Toji temple flea market.

As always, am ending off with a bit more information about our accommodation and foodie choices.  We stayed in Gion, near where I stayed on my last visit.  Really cosy little place, makes me feel so Japanese!  Let me say it again, I strongly recommend renting an apartment if you are staying any time in Japan.  It gives you much more room, allows you the comfort of having little meals in your own little living room, and there's a washing machine so you don't need to bring too many clothes.

Udon Sanshiki

As for food, my posts on my previous trips are here and here.  I've reached the stage where I'm going back to old favourites, like my favourite conveyor belt sushi at Kyoto station, Sushi no Musashi, and even the yudofu tofu place near Nanzen-ji, Goemon Chaya (again, I wanted to go to the famous restaurant but the wait list was just too long).  So this time round, I will just introduce three new places (plus one dessert surprise)

1.  Udon Sanshiki

This udon restaurant was near our apartment and we went there on the first day because (i) we like udon and (ii) there was a queue in front and like any normal Singaporean we associate queues with good food.  So we stood outside for maybe 10 minutes before they let us in.  We really enjoyed the chewy, smooth udon noodles!  Liked it so much we would come back for dinner on our last night in Kyoto.

2. Hanamakiya

The buckwheat mill in action

This was an unexpected find.  After visiting Kinkakuji we walked back to the main road in the
direction of the bus stop.  Looking down one side road, we saw yet another queue, and upon investigation realised that it was a group waiting for a restaurant to open.   We joined the queue and were thus one of the first few groups to enter, good thing too as it would fill up quickly behind us.  Hanamakiya is a small, unassuming restaurant which serves practically perfect soba (buckwheat noodles).  The soba is made on the premises (you can watch the buckwheat mill in operation).

I ate the Nishin soba, which is soba (buckwheat) noodles in soup with herring on top.  I understand that the herring is a Kyoto specialty and indeed I bought it in the Nishiki market a few days later.  I liked its nice flaky texture, and sweet and slightly smoky flavour.  It was served in a slightly sour soup of wild mountain vegetables.  All washed down with buckwheat tea (soba-cha).

3.  Maguro Factory

Maguro Factory's tasting tuna platter

Now if you know your Japanese you would know that "maguro" means tuna. And that tuna is like "the" fish for the Japanese (certainly not salmon).  So this is like a modern Japanese restaurant, serving tuna cooked all ways. We tried out this mini tuna tasting platter where the different cuts are nicely served on top of a little box (see photo).  You get to lightly sear the tuna pieces on a hot plate, dip them in a sauce and enjoy. 

We also ate tuna sashimi, tuna on top of rice and served with soup on the side (you pour the soup on the rice, for a tuna fish porridge, and top it with freshly grated wasabi).  The tofu squares were given as our appetiser and I believe I washed it all down with some beer. 

Souffle pancake at Hoshino Coffee

Dessert Surprise: Hoshino Coffee

And now for dessert!  We finished our meal at Sushi no Musashi and wanted to have something sweet to end.  So we found this nice coffee place near the sushi joint where they serve these hugely thick souffle pancakes, topped with chestnut puree. 

I got hooked on souffle pancakes after visiting Himeji Castle during my last visit to the Kansai area - we were tired after our visit, there was time before our return train and there was a convenient cafe.  There's no better time to eat one - or two, as the case may be.  Accompanied by a cup of mellow, smooth coffee.

So that's it for another year!  I must admit that I did not expect to visit Japan for so many years in a row and there is still so much to see and experience in this beautiful country.

Sayonara for now! 

A Pair of Markets

Flea market at Toji Temple

One reason why I like visiting Kyoto is that by now, I can have the pleasure of revisiting my favourite haunts, but at the same time discover new places. 

This time, of course it was no different.  We popped into Nishiki market which I've been to on every visit to Kyoto, and also the flea market at Toji temple, which takes place on the 21st of every month.  I've never been in Kyoto on the 21st of any month so I was glad to have made it here. 

But first, a quick recap of the Nishiki market visit. 

Matcha and regular soft serve

I have to admit that I went to all my old favourites - we shared a serving of takoyaki balls, all smothered with mayonaise, BBQ sauce, and spring onions; the soft-serve soy ice cream; and a skewerful of marinated raw salmon cubes.  Plus other things besides.  The beef pao (which I ate last visit to Nishiki) are also extremely good but I didn't have one this visit as I was a little full already.  So moral of the story is eat the beef pao first  and you'll have a great morning. 

Nishiki is also a good place to buy food products to bring back to Singapore - I do recommend the packets of furikake, which are the toppings you put on top of rice, or the marinated preserved mackeral (with its distinctive smoky-sweet flavour).  You can also buy pickles, of every single variety you can think of.

The flea market at Toji Temple is quite different.  Set in the large, sprawling grounds of the temple, it is full of antique stalls, clothing stalls, craft stalls, food stalls, plant stalls etc.... indeed, there is something for everyone in this extensive flea market!  It was a little rainy the day we were there, which means that the photos are not that great but nonetheless we had a nice time wandering around all the stalls. 

Antique stall at Toji Market

The thing about going to these markets is that one must not have Marie Kondo and her teachings at the back of your mind.  We first went by all the stalls selling kimono and obi - with all their range of material.  The prices were good - very good.  But I knew it was most unlikely that I would wear one should I buy it.  To me, the most interesting stalls were the antique stalls with their mix of items ranging from old kitchenware, little ornaments, artworks, furniture etc.  I didn't buy anything as then I would have to figure out where to put it and what to do with it once back in Singapore - but still enjoyed just walking around looking at the goods.  And my cousin bought some food items and a little fabric purse, which made up for my lack of purchases :-)

The setting for all the market, Toji temple is itself impressive.  The temple was built in the late 700s, when the capital of Japan moved from Nara to Kyoto.  "Toji" means "East Temple" and it stood together with its neighbouring temple, "Saiji" or "West Temple" to mark the south gate into Kyoto.  Saiji was demolished many years ago but Toji, together with its proud and impressive pagoda, remains and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. More about the temple can be found here.

The temple is best known for its pagoda and the many Buddhist treasures within its halls.  We did not go in to any of the temple buildings this time round.  But treasures and buildings are static things. For me what caught the eye were the pilgrims walking around the outer walls of the jikido (or refectory) of the temple, stopping and saying a prayer at each scroll.  Oblivious to the crowds around them, they quietly focused on their devotions.  This, to me, is the tradition and religion which the temple has kept alive and growing for all the centuries since its construction, even as the world around it changes.

Pilgrims at prayer

More photos of my Japan visit here.