Qatar is modernising at a rapid rate. New buildings are coming up rapidly especially in the downtown area, and UK and US brands can be found in its spanking new shopping centres. In fact, we were (or maybe I was) most excited to find Applebees in the City Centre shopping centre. [Applebees is a US chain which has got excellent desserts, including my favourite Maple Butter Blondie, or a white chocolate brownie with a scoop of ice cream on top and maple butter poured all over.]
How far are the changes external, and how far have they changed the way of life of Qataris? There has not been substantial change in the way people dress. Men are in their long white robes and white/red-and-white checked headgear. The long robes are crisply ironed and immaculately white. Makers of detergent, bleach products must see this as a major market. Women on the other hand wear black, and their robes are made of soft flowing material. Whilst everyone covers their heads, some wear the veil over everything except their eyes and a few cover their heads completely. But I am told that 15 years ago, women would not have been allowed to drive. Today, they can be seen behind the wheel on the roads.
Incidentally, talking about driving, Qatar was the first country I'd ever been in where I could not read the car numbers. They are in Arabic, appropriately enough given that I believe the Arab numerals were the basis for the modern numbering system anyway. The "normal" numerals are included in a smaller font size, just below the Arabic numbers.
Al Jazeera is perhaps another sign of how Qatar is changing. The station has just launched a new English channel, in addition to its well-known Arabic channel. Of course it is not possible for me to make a comparison between the English and Arabic channel content. But the English channel was indeed far from what I had anticipated Al Jazeera to be. First, it seems to be a strange mix between CNN and BBC. Whilst I did not have many opportunities to watch the English channel, the coverage appeared to be on developing countries and development issues. There were features on crime in Guatemala, Siberian tigers in China, poor farmers in Kenya. Plus a feature on Saddam Hussein. I thought the coverage fairly balanced and objective; but obviously the fact that it covers developing country issues shows its editorial direction. Al Jazeera broadcasts out of a number of countries now, not just Qatar. In fact it broadcasts out of KL! But of course we in Singapore don't get it on cable. (I was to be quite disappointed in Dubai when I realised that I couldn't watch Al Jazeera in the hotel there).
The changes in Doha can also be seen in its downtown area. We were staying in perhaps a more sedate part of the city. But I had dinner with an ex-colleague down at Signal Ramada and realised that it was a far more exciting part of town, at least at night. There were two or three strips of restaurants including the Beijing Great Wall restaurant, Le Notre Restaurant, Pondarosa and Chilis'. Prices are not cheap but at least there are some places to meet up for dinner at.
On our last day in Doha, we finally found some time to go to
the Corniche. It was a short visit and perhaps not to the most picturesque point of the waterfront. We did not see the old dhows, the traditional boats which used to ply the waters. Rather, a large container ship, small modern sailing boats and the occasional sight of an aeroplane flying ahead were the order of the day. The city skyline could also be seen from where we were. But at least the water was bright blue in colour and there was not a cloud in the sky.We flew off from Doha on 24 Jan, after 5 quick days here. Next stop: Dubai!
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