Mount Yoshino: Cherry Blossom Central

We went today to Mt Yoshino, Japan's no. 1 cherry blossom viewing spot.  We decided to go on a weekday in order to beat the weekend crowds, but there were many people nonetheless.  

We took the train from Kyoto station (2 hour journey, one change) to Yoshino.  This was on Kintetsu Railway, one of the private railways serving the Kansai region.  I must say that in general, I have found the Japanese transport system reasonably cheap, and fairly extensive.  And of course, everything runs on time!  

The Rojin-hiroba, or Senior Citizens' Corner!

We reached Yoshino station and then had to queue for the shuttle bus up the mountain (a rather long queue).  But it was worth it, as the bus took us for quite a winding trip up the mountain.  We walked up a little way and since by this time it was already noon, found a nice flat area for our lunch, filled with groups and surrounded by a number of flowering cherry trees.  I did notice that the groups seemed to be made of older people but did not think anything of it until later when I saw an English sign indicating that it was the "Rojin-hiroba" or "Senior Citizens' Corner"!  Silly me, I thought that the Japanese kids were in school and the younger Japanese were working.  Anyway, we ignorant tourists had a pleasant time sitting on our mat under the tree, looking at the beautiful blossoms on the tree beside us and going "wow!" with the rest of the groups whenever a wind blew the petals off the blossoms, sending them swirling around us, like snow falling and flying on the ground.  In keeping with the spirit of the hanami-parties, we ate sakura-inspired mochi (actually mostly full of red beans, or akuzi beans), as well as little arrowroot biscuits which reminded me of kueh bangkit.  

After lunch, we climbed to the top of the little hill behind us and there, before us, was a beautiful view of the

Somei Yoshino, I presume

trees around us and the distant slopes and hills.  Walking around, I also learnt that the area we were in was actually the Sakura Tenjji-En Cherry Tree Exhibition Field, where a variety species of cherry trees had been planted as an exhibition area.  Further research indicated that there were over one hundred varieties of cherry trees, of which one of the most popular was the somei yoshino!

So just from the name alone, you can see that Yoshino is really closely associated with cherry blossoms.  But the reason why Yoshino is Japan's No. 1 cherry blossom viewing spot is that the cherry blossom season lasts for most of a month, rather than just over a few days.  The trees at the bottom of the mountain (the Shimo Senbon or lower 1000 trees) start blooming first, then as you go up the mountain where temperatures are lower, the trees (first the Naka Senbon or middle 1000 trees, then the Kami Senbon or upper 1000 trees) will bloom later until you reach the Oku Senbon (or inner 1000 trees) at the top of the mountain.  In case you are wondering, the answer is no, we did not go to the top of the mountain.  From what I can guess (the map's not that clear to me) we were around the Naka Senbon and Kami Senbon strata to start with.  In addition, the different varieties have different blooming times.  So everywhere you go, even though there are trees which have already finished blooming and have shed all their petals, there are others in full bloom and others still about to bloom.

Sakuramotobou

In addition to cherry trees everywhere, there are also a few temples and shrines on Mt Yoshino but we didn't really have the time to visit them. We did enter one temple compound, drawn by the beautiful weeping cherry tree there.  The temple was called Sakuramotobou and was apparently built by Emperor Tenmu who had a dream about the cherry blossoms on the mountain. As an aside, we also made another stop to buy sakura ice cream :-) 

We took so long to get down the mountain that the crowds started thinning out and the sun began to set.  But it was truly fortuitous that we took our time because the glow of the setting sun on the cherry trees was really beautiful to see and experience without the crowds around us.

Sunset on Mount Yoshino

Eventually, we got to the base of the mountain and took our train back to Kyoto.  When we changed trains, a group of schoolchildren dashed in too and some got off only a few stations out from Kyoto.  Makes me wonder how far Japanese kids have to travel to school....

Got back into Kyoto around 8.40pm.   Fortunately for us, some of the restaurants in good old Kyoto station were still open and I had a quick dinner there, washed down with a little sake.  Then, back to the hotel- I am so glad we are at a convenient walking distance to Kyoto station!

More pictures on Flickr, as and when I upload them.  But let me share some favourites here:

In full bloom, from the top of the hill next to the senior citizen's corner

Shidarezakura, or the weeping cherry tree - seen at Sakuramotobou

Walking down the mountain

Quiet beauty