Mount Yoshino: Cherry Blossom Central

We went today to Mt Yoshino, Japan's no. 1 cherry blossom viewing spot.  We decided to go on a weekday in order to beat the weekend crowds, but there were many people nonetheless.  

We took the train from Kyoto station (2 hour journey, one change) to Yoshino.  This was on Kintetsu Railway, one of the private railways serving the Kansai region.  I must say that in general, I have found the Japanese transport system reasonably cheap, and fairly extensive.  And of course, everything runs on time!  

The Rojin-hiroba, or Senior Citizens' Corner!

We reached Yoshino station and then had to queue for the shuttle bus up the mountain (a rather long queue).  But it was worth it, as the bus took us for quite a winding trip up the mountain.  We walked up a little way and since by this time it was already noon, found a nice flat area for our lunch, filled with groups and surrounded by a number of flowering cherry trees.  I did notice that the groups seemed to be made of older people but did not think anything of it until later when I saw an English sign indicating that it was the "Rojin-hiroba" or "Senior Citizens' Corner"!  Silly me, I thought that the Japanese kids were in school and the younger Japanese were working.  Anyway, we ignorant tourists had a pleasant time sitting on our mat under the tree, looking at the beautiful blossoms on the tree beside us and going "wow!" with the rest of the groups whenever a wind blew the petals off the blossoms, sending them swirling around us, like snow falling and flying on the ground.  In keeping with the spirit of the hanami-parties, we ate sakura-inspired mochi (actually mostly full of red beans, or akuzi beans), as well as little arrowroot biscuits which reminded me of kueh bangkit.  

After lunch, we climbed to the top of the little hill behind us and there, before us, was a beautiful view of the

Somei Yoshino, I presume

trees around us and the distant slopes and hills.  Walking around, I also learnt that the area we were in was actually the Sakura Tenjji-En Cherry Tree Exhibition Field, where a variety species of cherry trees had been planted as an exhibition area.  Further research indicated that there were over one hundred varieties of cherry trees, of which one of the most popular was the somei yoshino!

So just from the name alone, you can see that Yoshino is really closely associated with cherry blossoms.  But the reason why Yoshino is Japan's No. 1 cherry blossom viewing spot is that the cherry blossom season lasts for most of a month, rather than just over a few days.  The trees at the bottom of the mountain (the Shimo Senbon or lower 1000 trees) start blooming first, then as you go up the mountain where temperatures are lower, the trees (first the Naka Senbon or middle 1000 trees, then the Kami Senbon or upper 1000 trees) will bloom later until you reach the Oku Senbon (or inner 1000 trees) at the top of the mountain.  In case you are wondering, the answer is no, we did not go to the top of the mountain.  From what I can guess (the map's not that clear to me) we were around the Naka Senbon and Kami Senbon strata to start with.  In addition, the different varieties have different blooming times.  So everywhere you go, even though there are trees which have already finished blooming and have shed all their petals, there are others in full bloom and others still about to bloom.

Sakuramotobou

In addition to cherry trees everywhere, there are also a few temples and shrines on Mt Yoshino but we didn't really have the time to visit them. We did enter one temple compound, drawn by the beautiful weeping cherry tree there.  The temple was called Sakuramotobou and was apparently built by Emperor Tenmu who had a dream about the cherry blossoms on the mountain. As an aside, we also made another stop to buy sakura ice cream :-) 

We took so long to get down the mountain that the crowds started thinning out and the sun began to set.  But it was truly fortuitous that we took our time because the glow of the setting sun on the cherry trees was really beautiful to see and experience without the crowds around us.

Sunset on Mount Yoshino

Eventually, we got to the base of the mountain and took our train back to Kyoto.  When we changed trains, a group of schoolchildren dashed in too and some got off only a few stations out from Kyoto.  Makes me wonder how far Japanese kids have to travel to school....

Got back into Kyoto around 8.40pm.   Fortunately for us, some of the restaurants in good old Kyoto station were still open and I had a quick dinner there, washed down with a little sake.  Then, back to the hotel- I am so glad we are at a convenient walking distance to Kyoto station!

More pictures on Flickr, as and when I upload them.  But let me share some favourites here:

In full bloom, from the top of the hill next to the senior citizen's corner

Shidarezakura, or the weeping cherry tree - seen at Sakuramotobou

Walking down the mountain

Quiet beauty

Hanami time: Viewing flowers in Kyoto

Day 2 in Japan.  It was a good day for viewing blossoms!

Cherry Blossoms at the Imperial Palace

Kyoto was the Imperial capital of Japan for many years, until the capital shifted to Kyoto.  But as a result, Kyoto has many historical buildings, mystical gardens and peaceful temples. We visited only a small fraction of the many beautiful buildings but the Imperial Palace was a must-see on our list.

Serenity of a Japanese Garden

Access to the Imperial Palace is normally restricted - visitors to the Palace must sign up for a guided tour.  But twice a year, the Palace is open to the public - one week in spring, and the other in the fall.  We were lucky enough that our visit coincided with the spring "Open House" for the palace.  So there we went, ourselves and thousands of other visitors, Japanese and tourists alike.  There were special performances scheduled for the morning in the palace grounds.  So we went to watch, us and probably half the visitors in the palace.  We lined up around the performance dais and found that we still could not see the performers with ease.  After a while, we gave up and decided to explore the beauties palace and its grounds instead.

 The Palace is a collection of sprawling buildings, including an imposing Imperial throne hall in a gigantic

The Imperial Throne Hall

courtyard surrounded by brightly coloured orange pillars.  Smaller halls surround this main hall, and there is a small, exquisite little garden alongside - the Emperor's private garden.There were mannikins arramged in one of the halls, to illustrate how the members of the Imperial court would have lived. The bustle in the Palace was probably quite similar to what the place must have been like when Kyoto was the capital city of Japan. But I would like to come back, another time, when there are fewer people and the Palace is restored to its normal state of peace and tranquility.

We wandered outside, through the park surrounding the Palace, to the small little food fair which was set up just beside the exit. It was selling mainly snacks - sweets, pickles, cakes, nuts and many other things including sake.  Bought a green tea ice cream :-)

Artists and the Cherry Tree

But what was really pleasant to see were the people enjoying the beautiful weather, and the holiday atmosphere of the park - small groups of friends and family were sitting in the park, on benches and the ground. People were playing with their children, or walking their dogs - and a small colony of artists were painting the cherry trees! 

We finally found a magical little dell with weeping cherry blossom trees shedding petals on the ground below.  Our little hanami viewing party of two settled beneath our own cherry tree. Unfortunately we had no food but we sat and watched the petals fall on our mat, our bags and ourselves.  Around us, people were sitting and chatting, and having a good time catching up.  It was a delightful time.

Tulips in the Kyoto Botanical Gardens

After the Palace, we went to the Kyoto Botanical Gardens, a few tube stops away.  We had a pleasant surprise - brilliant, brightly coloured tulips were on show.  But of course we were there for one thing - and we were not disappointed as we discovered the enchanted grove of weeping cherry trees (fast becoming my favourite cherry tree variety). The trees were burdened with the most beautiful pale pink flowers, with the deeper pink buds alongside, the branches falling down like a gentle little curtain around us.

Going through the cherry tree groves, it is indeed very clear why the Japanese so love the cherry blossom.  Indeed, even after a whole day looking at and photographing these fragile blooms, I too must admit to becoming a very big fan.   So, here is a little video taken in the Imperial Palace park which I think captures perfectly the atmosphere in the grounds.  And one last photo taken in the Kyoto Botanical Gardens.  More photos can also be seen on my Flickr page, as I slowly update it.  Enjoy!  

Kyoto Botanical Gardens