Tokyo Neighbourhoods: Meiji Shrine and Yoyogi Park

For almost three centuries, the Tokugawa shogunate founded by Ieyasu Tokugawa ruled Japan whilst the Emperor was marginalised.  This changed in the mid-19th Century when the last Shogun lost the support of the feudal lords and resigned.  The Emperor took charge again.  Recognising that Japan had slipped behind the western powers, he opened up Japan to foreign trade, technology and know-how.  It was he who presided over the industrialisation of Japan, and the renaming of "Edo" as "Tokyo".  The Meiji shrine was erected in memory of the Emperor and his Empress and is meant to "enshrine" their spirits.

Bonsai

Today, the shrine remains very much a key centre of Japanese religious life.  Indeed, when we were there we saw no less than four separate activities taking place at the shrine!


First, there was a chrysanthemum exhibition, featuring also bonsai bonsai plants.  The Chrysanthemum is always associated with the Imperial Family - a specific variety is the Imperial flower, and the Emperor sits upon the Chrysanthemum throne.  So it was most appropriate that there was yet another chrysanthemum exhibition to visit here.  In addition, there was also a selection of bonsai plants to be admired.  Personally I much preferred the bonsai exhibitions as the miniature landscapes displayed far more Creative flair and imagination compared to just viewing gigantic chrysanthemum flowers.

Sake from distilleries throughout Japan

Second, to commemorate the Meiji Emperor’s birthday on 3 Nov,  every year, major producers send a special gift of their best produce to his shrine, in hopes of continuing future prosperity. This is displayed in a small corner of the shrine area (I presume there are more but they select only a portion to display).  I was quite impressed by the number of sake bottles on show!  Of course there were other products exhibited but none of them made such a convincing display.

Dressed in her best kimono

Third, we saw lots of little boys and girls dressed up in their traditional clothing, looking ever so sweet and cute.  I was wondering what it was - on checking up it is a "shichi-go-san" or "3-5-7" festival, so named because children of these ages are meant to visit the shrine as part of their "growing up" rituals.  Accompanied by their parents and sometimes their grandparents, the children
walk into the shrine, to get a blessing - a candy representing longevity and health.  The families don't need to go to the Meiji shrine in particular - any shrine will do.  Technically the festival is on Nov 15 (3+5+7) but families do go to the shrine even a few weeks beforehand, presumably to beat the crowds.  All dressed up in their best clothing, the children looked as they were having a good time, getting their photos taken, playing with their balloons etc etc.  I'm afraid to say that we did go around "stalking" the especially cute ones, to take their photo!

Fourth, we saw a wedding procession!  Not entirely unexpected, as I had read earlier that the shrine is a preferred location for couples to solemnise their weddings.  So we came to the shrine hoping to see a wedding.  This, to be honest, was my highlight of the day.  Earlier on,  I had seen the Shinto priests just outside the main courtyard of the shrine talking to two women who must have been the mothers of the bride and groom.  Then, as I was busily trying to catch a photo of a cute kimono-clad kiddie, the bridal procession marched in.  Dressed in traditional clothing, the bride and groom walk in behind the priests, accompanied by their entourage.  Everyone looks quite stern and serious.  They walk into the shrine, ignoring the gaping tourists around them.  After a few minutes (presumably after the appropriate rituals are completed) they return to the courtyard.  Just before the exit, the Shinto priests stop, exchange bows with the couple before making their way out.

To me, the Meiji shrine visit really gave me an insight into the spiritual heartbeat of Japan.  It is a "working shrine", one where the spirit of the great Emperor Meiji continues to be venerated and thanked for helping to bring about modern Japan.

We went for lunch thereafter (at Heiroku Sushi) but made our way back to walk around Yoyogi Park. It's one of the restful green lungs of this busy city - where Tokyo residents spend time with family and friends in the peaceful environment of the park.  An elderly bunch of Elvis imitators were gyrating near the entrance, and we walked past a group of men playing frisbee, girls chatting under a tree, a poodle club (and owners) meeting and so on.  We reached a little lake in the middle of the park where the trees around were just beginning to show their autumn colours.  It was a lovely end to the day.

Autumn colours in Yoyogi Park

I've been visiting Japan every year from 2014 to 2017 and with each visit here, I am slowly learning more about the rich and distinct Japanese culture, history and society.  This is a society which appreciates beauty and nature, believes in the pursuit of perfection, and filled with an ancient pride and spirituality which makes it distinct from all others.  Can't wait to see what my 2018 visit has in store!

In the meantime, all photos from this Tokyo trip here.