Papa Francesco and St Peter's Square at Night

I'm this close to Pope Francis!

This is a short post; mainly to keep track of the key events in my life which took place in 2019. I was privileged to be a participant in the Caritas Internationalis General Assembly held in May this year.  The GA opened with a Papal Mass celebrated by Pope Francis.  Definitely one of my Bucket List items! 

It was a wonderful experience, sitting there in the Basilica with Catholics from all over the world around me.  The Universal Church!

After mass, there was a reception and dinner.  We had the pleasure of walking back to our bus through St Peter's Square.  What a serene atmosphere it was, in the still and peace of the night.

A few days later, we had the additional honour of a Papal Audience.  Truly a moment to remember.

St Peter's Square at Night

Rome and the Romantic Poets

I visited Rome in May this year, for the first time since my pilgrimage 10 years ago.   Unfortunately, I didn't have much time for sight-seeing as the main purpose of my visit was to attend the one-in-four-years assembly which my Catholic charity has in Rome.

Temple of Aesculapius, Gardens of Villa Borghese

But I did get there one day earlier and managed to visit a few places I've not been to before - the grounds of the Villa Borghese, and the Keats-Shelley Museum.  They are quite near each other, and make quite a pleasant day's sightseeing.

The Villa Borghese was originally owned by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V, hence the name.  The Villa holds one of the top art collections in Rome - unfortunately I didn't realise I had to book well in advance to enter (something to note for future reference).  So I could only visit the Borghese Gardens, the park surrounding the Villa and itself one of the largest public parks in Rome.  The park is also the site of a  famous horse show arena, the Piazza di Siena, hence the statues of horses I saw there.  I didn't realise it but there was a famous horse show going on at the time - so the grounds were full of caravans and the like.

The Church of Trinita dei Monti

From the park, I took a slow walk to the Spanish steps.  The Spanish Steps are so named because the square they lead down to (Piazza di Spagna, or the Spanish Square) houses the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See which is still here today. It's one of the most famous squares/stairs in Rome, made famous by the movie, Roman Holiday starring none other than Audrey Hepburn.

But, the steps are really called Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti in Italian as they lead up to the Church of Trinità dei Monti.  The Italians have recently stopped visitors from sitting on these famous stairs but when I was there, the restrictions were not in place and it was a rather nice, happy atmosphere, of people sitting and chatting and taking in the atmosphere.

T he other strange little irony about this area is that this Spanish Square is practically the "English Quarter" of Rome!  The English loved Italy, attracted by the warm weather (so different from the rainy weather back home) and good food.  Many came here for the opportunity to study classical Rome and others to admire the architecture and art, and to be inspired by the glorious scenery.  So around this area are cafes such as  Cafe Grecco, the oldest coffee house in Rome where luminaries such as Byron and Goethe used to hang out.  Another English favourite was Babington's, an English tea room just on the left of the Spanish stairs (as you ascend the stairs).  It's been around since 1893!

John Keat's room

On the right of the Spanish steps is where John Keats stayed, and died.  This building is now the Keats-Shelley Museum, dedicated to the memory of Keats, Shelley and Byron (who lived across the square at No. 66). Since I occasionally fancy myself a poet I decided that this was where I would spend my precious afternoon in Rome.

Indeed, the tragedy of Keats' short life is preserved here in this little museum.  There are just a few rooms in this little museum - a main living area, and two bedrooms.  Keats' room holds his bed, a chest of drawers and his death mask beside his bed.

He was just 25 years old when he passed away of tuberculosis, convinced that he had not achieved anything in life.  His published works were few, and due to his ill-health, he could not marry the lady he loved, Fanny Brawne.  He was buried in the Protestant Cemetery in Rome.  As per his instruction, his name is not on the tombstone and it only states that "Here one lies whose name was writ on water", ie a name which doesn't leave a mark but is washed away as the water flows...

English Romantic Poets in Rome

Despite his own modest assessment of his worth, Keats today is regarded as one of the geniuses of English literature with his famous odes, such as Ode to a Nightingale, Ode to a Grecian Urn, and my favourite (which I have referred to already once on this blog), Ode to Autumn.

Sadly, the three Romantic poets all died young.  Percy Bysshe Shelley, Keats' good friend, drowned after the boat he was in floundered in a heavy storm.   He was just 29 years old.  Shelley's widow, Mary, is of course very famous in her own right thanks to her novel, Frankenstein.  In fact her creation is probably more famous than she is!

The last of the three, Lord Byron, or George Gordon Byron, died at the age of 36 years, from a disease caught whilst he was fighting for the Greeks in the Greek War of Independence.  For that he was considered a hero amongst the Greeks, a true Romantic who died for his ideals but whose memory lives amongst them still.

I came away reflecting about the transience of life.  To everything there is a season.  But truth, beauty, love of nature, freedom of expression, life and liberty, the importance of being true to oneself - these were indeed the externals which the Romantics stood for and whilst they passed away, their poetry lives on and their message with them.

Wee Willy Winky

Winky

Our dear Winky left us today, in the early hours of the morning.  It was a short illness - maybe about a week or so.  The vet thought it was pancreatis when we brought him in just Thursday evening, and gave a shot of antibiotics which was supposed to address the infection.  We didn't expect it to be so fast.  Just one week ago, he seemed perfectly fine.  Then a few days ago we noticed that he was listless, and off his food.  That was when we brought him in to the vet.

We have had our dear Winky ever since 2006 when he was a young kitten; he and his three siblings - Inky, Binky and Dinky.  Inky (all black) disappeared and Binky got hit by a car.  With only the two of them left, they were the closest of playmates.   Dinky lived with us until he died of cancer a few years ago.  And now, with Winky's departure, all four are indeed gone.

Winky loved his brother Dinky

Winky had all sorts of adorable and not-so-adorable habits.  He liked to read the newspaper, jumping up on our laps in the morning as we tried to catch up with the news.  He would come when called, jumping up on the sofa where he would snuggle next to us as we watched TV.  He was a needy cat, ensuring that we paid our dues of strokes and ear-rubs by digging a single claw in our leg until we complied. 

Winky catching up with the cat news

He was our original planking cat.  He loved lying on the cool granite floor of our house and would stretch himself out as much as he could.

Planking

Come Christmas-time, he was fascinated by the crib.  He would jump onto the cabinet where the crib was placed and lie in it.  Whilst it was sweet to see how God calls all creatures to Himself, we did not dare let Baby Jesus rest in his manger for fear that Winky would carry him off.

Winky looking for Baby Jesus

He also liked escaping and making little trips around the neighbourhood.  That's why we got him a collar so that at least people would know he was someone's cat and not a stray.  But as he grew older, he became more inclined to stay at home. 

Winky in his collar

He was a loving little cat, hiding his affection behind his impassive little mask of a face.  And now he is gone. 

We will miss him.

His photo gallery is here.

Sayonara to Kyoto

Yasaka-no-to Pagoda - off Ninen-zaka 

Reflecting on this trip to Kyoto, it was indeed a peaceful and reasonably paced holiday, despite the uncertain beginning.  We experienced different aspects of Kyoto - both the city as well as the surroundings:

• the old, historical and cultural heart of Kyoto - the Temples of Ginkakuji and Kinkakuji; Nijo Castle, and the meandering around Gion and the geisha district (including the Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka pedestrian streets); the Ukiyo-e Museum;
• the vibrant beat of modern Japanese culture (albeit through the eyes of Yayoi Kusama and the manga artists and Writers)
• the serenity of the Japanese countryside and village life in Miyama;
• the charm of two different markets - Nishiki market and the Toji temple flea market.

As always, am ending off with a bit more information about our accommodation and foodie choices.  We stayed in Gion, near where I stayed on my last visit.  Really cosy little place, makes me feel so Japanese!  Let me say it again, I strongly recommend renting an apartment if you are staying any time in Japan.  It gives you much more room, allows you the comfort of having little meals in your own little living room, and there's a washing machine so you don't need to bring too many clothes.

Udon Sanshiki

As for food, my posts on my previous trips are here and here.  I've reached the stage where I'm going back to old favourites, like my favourite conveyor belt sushi at Kyoto station, Sushi no Musashi, and even the yudofu tofu place near Nanzen-ji, Goemon Chaya (again, I wanted to go to the famous restaurant but the wait list was just too long).  So this time round, I will just introduce three new places (plus one dessert surprise)

1.  Udon Sanshiki

This udon restaurant was near our apartment and we went there on the first day because (i) we like udon and (ii) there was a queue in front and like any normal Singaporean we associate queues with good food.  So we stood outside for maybe 10 minutes before they let us in.  We really enjoyed the chewy, smooth udon noodles!  Liked it so much we would come back for dinner on our last night in Kyoto.

2. Hanamakiya

The buckwheat mill in action

This was an unexpected find.  After visiting Kinkakuji we walked back to the main road in the
direction of the bus stop.  Looking down one side road, we saw yet another queue, and upon investigation realised that it was a group waiting for a restaurant to open.   We joined the queue and were thus one of the first few groups to enter, good thing too as it would fill up quickly behind us.  Hanamakiya is a small, unassuming restaurant which serves practically perfect soba (buckwheat noodles).  The soba is made on the premises (you can watch the buckwheat mill in operation).

I ate the Nishin soba, which is soba (buckwheat) noodles in soup with herring on top.  I understand that the herring is a Kyoto specialty and indeed I bought it in the Nishiki market a few days later.  I liked its nice flaky texture, and sweet and slightly smoky flavour.  It was served in a slightly sour soup of wild mountain vegetables.  All washed down with buckwheat tea (soba-cha).

3.  Maguro Factory

Maguro Factory's tasting tuna platter

Now if you know your Japanese you would know that "maguro" means tuna. And that tuna is like "the" fish for the Japanese (certainly not salmon).  So this is like a modern Japanese restaurant, serving tuna cooked all ways. We tried out this mini tuna tasting platter where the different cuts are nicely served on top of a little box (see photo).  You get to lightly sear the tuna pieces on a hot plate, dip them in a sauce and enjoy. 

We also ate tuna sashimi, tuna on top of rice and served with soup on the side (you pour the soup on the rice, for a tuna fish porridge, and top it with freshly grated wasabi).  The tofu squares were given as our appetiser and I believe I washed it all down with some beer. 

Souffle pancake at Hoshino Coffee

Dessert Surprise: Hoshino Coffee

And now for dessert!  We finished our meal at Sushi no Musashi and wanted to have something sweet to end.  So we found this nice coffee place near the sushi joint where they serve these hugely thick souffle pancakes, topped with chestnut puree. 

I got hooked on souffle pancakes after visiting Himeji Castle during my last visit to the Kansai area - we were tired after our visit, there was time before our return train and there was a convenient cafe.  There's no better time to eat one - or two, as the case may be.  Accompanied by a cup of mellow, smooth coffee.

So that's it for another year!  I must admit that I did not expect to visit Japan for so many years in a row and there is still so much to see and experience in this beautiful country.

Sayonara for now! 

A Pair of Markets

Flea market at Toji Temple

One reason why I like visiting Kyoto is that by now, I can have the pleasure of revisiting my favourite haunts, but at the same time discover new places. 

This time, of course it was no different.  We popped into Nishiki market which I've been to on every visit to Kyoto, and also the flea market at Toji temple, which takes place on the 21st of every month.  I've never been in Kyoto on the 21st of any month so I was glad to have made it here. 

But first, a quick recap of the Nishiki market visit. 

Matcha and regular soft serve

I have to admit that I went to all my old favourites - we shared a serving of takoyaki balls, all smothered with mayonaise, BBQ sauce, and spring onions; the soft-serve soy ice cream; and a skewerful of marinated raw salmon cubes.  Plus other things besides.  The beef pao (which I ate last visit to Nishiki) are also extremely good but I didn't have one this visit as I was a little full already.  So moral of the story is eat the beef pao first  and you'll have a great morning. 

Nishiki is also a good place to buy food products to bring back to Singapore - I do recommend the packets of furikake, which are the toppings you put on top of rice, or the marinated preserved mackeral (with its distinctive smoky-sweet flavour).  You can also buy pickles, of every single variety you can think of.

The flea market at Toji Temple is quite different.  Set in the large, sprawling grounds of the temple, it is full of antique stalls, clothing stalls, craft stalls, food stalls, plant stalls etc.... indeed, there is something for everyone in this extensive flea market!  It was a little rainy the day we were there, which means that the photos are not that great but nonetheless we had a nice time wandering around all the stalls. 

Antique stall at Toji Market

The thing about going to these markets is that one must not have Marie Kondo and her teachings at the back of your mind.  We first went by all the stalls selling kimono and obi - with all their range of material.  The prices were good - very good.  But I knew it was most unlikely that I would wear one should I buy it.  To me, the most interesting stalls were the antique stalls with their mix of items ranging from old kitchenware, little ornaments, artworks, furniture etc.  I didn't buy anything as then I would have to figure out where to put it and what to do with it once back in Singapore - but still enjoyed just walking around looking at the goods.  And my cousin bought some food items and a little fabric purse, which made up for my lack of purchases :-)

The setting for all the market, Toji temple is itself impressive.  The temple was built in the late 700s, when the capital of Japan moved from Nara to Kyoto.  "Toji" means "East Temple" and it stood together with its neighbouring temple, "Saiji" or "West Temple" to mark the south gate into Kyoto.  Saiji was demolished many years ago but Toji, together with its proud and impressive pagoda, remains and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. More about the temple can be found here.

The temple is best known for its pagoda and the many Buddhist treasures within its halls.  We did not go in to any of the temple buildings this time round.  But treasures and buildings are static things. For me what caught the eye were the pilgrims walking around the outer walls of the jikido (or refectory) of the temple, stopping and saying a prayer at each scroll.  Oblivious to the crowds around them, they quietly focused on their devotions.  This, to me, is the tradition and religion which the temple has kept alive and growing for all the centuries since its construction, even as the world around it changes.

Pilgrims at prayer

More photos of my Japan visit here.

A Day in Miyama

The thatched roof village of Miyama

I enjoy taking little day trips out of the city on my holidays, just so as to see something new and different.  We were a little uncertain on what to do this time round, but liked the suggestion of our "Travel Angel" to go to Miyama, a little village which he likened to the more famous Shirakawa-go. (Our "Travel Angel" was assigned to meet-and-greet us at our apartment; he also helps orientate us, and gives  suggestions on what to see and do).

It wasn't easy trying to figure out how to get to Miyama and even the Kyoto Station tourist information lady had to hunt around for the bus guide to get there.  In the spring, there is a tourist bus, but in the off-peak period, it was not so straightforward.  We had to take first a train journey, then a bus journey. Over two hours!  Anyway, after the train journey, we boarded the bus and went round through the hills and valleys till we reached Miyama.

Thatch - underside

Miyama is written "美山" which translates as "Beautiful Mountain".  And indeed, it is a charming little thatched roof village, amidst the mountains, by a river, way out into the countryside.  It is probably very isolated in winter, but in late summer, when we were there, it was a picture-postcard

We walked around the little village - it didn’t really take that long - and took photos of the quaint thatched roof houses.  The thickness of the thatch was quite amazing - it's a thick and deep layer and I can see how this really helps to insulate the houses from the cold.

We also visited the little Indigo Museum, housed in one of the traditional thatched roof cottages.  This museum was set up by Mr Hiroyuki Shindo, to share his passion for indigo dying.  The first part of the museum, on the ground floor of the cottage, covers the traditional indigo dying process - you see his dye vats, loom and of course the indigo plants.  There's also a little shop on the ground floor where you can buy some indigo-dyed products.

Kimono with indigo pattern

The second part of the exhibition is on the second floor of the cottage.  It is just a single room above, covering the entire floor - you can see the high pitched roof overhead.  It showcases beautiful indigo pieces from all over the world including this very lovely kimono (on the right), batik prints, etc.  There was even some scraps of cloth and threads which had been dyed from indigo salvaged from an ancient shipwreck!  What I also enjoyed looking at was the indigo dying techniques, including the way in which they can develop patterns from tying and then untying the fabric.

After visiting the museum, we found a charming little cafe where we had a simple snack comprising of mochi, ice cream and tea (yes our dessert was our lunch).  After that, we could have gone to visit the little village temple/shrine but we were too lazy to do so.  So we sat outside the cafe, looking at the view (below) and enjoying the sunshine.  I found a Pokemon gym in the middle of the little village where I planted a Pokemon.  And we wandered to a little shop near the bus stop where we bought a postcard or two.  And then it was time to take the bus back.

It is really very pleasant to just take it easy this holiday, seeing just a few major sites each day and lazing around the rest of the time.  We bumped into a Hongkong lady on the bus on the way to Miyama and chatted to her whilst we were waiting for the bus for the return journey.  She was travelling for about 10 days, covering Kyoto, Tokyo and Osaka!  I am glad that I have the good fortune of coming back again and again, to not just glimpse but absorb the rich culture and history of Japan.

More photos will be put up when ready.

The charming village of Miyama

A Trio of Museums

I am embarrassed to admit that I have been to Kyoto on two other previous occasions but did not step into even one museum.  Gardens, cherry blossoms, autumn leaves, ponds and streams (and one cat cafe), but no museum.  This time round, it would be different.  We started off with one museum on our planned itinerary but ended up seeing two more, partly because there was quite a bit of rain on our last two days in Kyoto so we moved our activities indoors.

The Great Wave - taken off the museum poster,
not the original print

The museum we had put on our agenda was the Kyoto Ukiyo-e Museum.  After looking so hard and failing to see Hokusai's "The Great Wave off Kanagawa" in the Tokyo National Museum last year, I was so happy to find out that the Kyoto Ukiyo-E Museum had a special exhibition on Hokusai's work.  To recap, ukiyo-e are Japanese wood cut prints.  The word, "ukiyo-e" literally means "sadness of life", but the prints typically depicted scenes of every day life, and of nature.  Because it also commonly was used to make posters advertising performances of Japanese kabuki performers, geisha and teahouses, or the places and scenes of the “floating world”, ukiyo-e also came to describe life’s impermanence.  Nothing however could be less impermanent than these prints.  The ukiyo-e artist first draws out the print on paper, and it is then transferred to a wooden block.  In fact, depending on how detailed and how colourful each picture is, it could be transferred to many wooden blocks, each translating to a different layer of colour.  The wooden blocks are then covered with pigment, and carefully stamped on a piece of paper, layer by layer making the prints.  In this way, numerous prints could be made. It was art for the ordinary man.

At the same time, it was also highly influential.  Ukiyo-e and the Japanese sensibility towards nature and art inspired western artists - in particular the  Impressionists. Monet, for example, had a roomful of ukiyo-e which I saw when I visited his home in Giverny earlier in 2018.

Hokusai is one of the great ukiyo-e artists and he is famous, in particular for his "Thirty-six views of Mt Fuji" of which "The Great Wave" is one.  Unfortunately the museum was very small - it is literally one room and a shop so it is not really worth the 1000Y I paid.  If it was not for the special exhibition, I would have been rather disappointed.  But I managed to see not only the "Great Wave" but “Black Fuji” and “Red Fuji”.  Whilst these three prints were enclosed and behind glass, I could also see most of the other prints up close.  Sadly we were not able to take photos but it was really so impressive to see how the wood carver must have delicately carved each line, each curve of the outline.

Today, ukiyo-e continues to influence artists from all over the world.  I watched a video on the flight back to Singapore, on how this US artist started drawing a series of prints, entitled "Ukiyo Heroes", which was subsequently transferred on to the woodblocks by a craftsman based in Japan.

Yayoi Kusama

Our second museum was the Forever Museum of Contemporary Art's Yayoi Kusama : “Pumpkin Forever” exhibition.  The "Forever Museum" is in Gion Corner, beside the theatre where I watched the annual Spring Dances or Miyako-Odori in Kyoto.  Now, Kusama had held an exhibition in Singapore, at our National Gallery, but at that point in time I didn’t have the time to make a visit.  So it was destined that I view her art here back in her home country.

Again, we were only able to take photos of selected exhibits. Yayoi is quite a controversial character and artist; she left her native Japan to go to the US in the 1950s where she tried to break into the art world, a difficult feat for a Japanese woman.  In the liberal air, love and sunshine of the 1960s, she became a performance artist, in addition to her work as a painter and in creating soft sculptures (they look like sea anemones to me, although they are apparently soft phalluses).  She returned to Japan, but the stresses of life got to her and she admitted herself into a mental institution.  There she continued to paint.   Today, her fame and popularity has spread across the world and her work is exhibited in many countries.

Infinity Room

There is a Yayoi Kusama Museum newly opened in Tokyo.  Here in Kyoto, the exhibition is held across a few rooms in the Forever Museum.  She is famous for her polka dots and pumpkins, infinity rooms and mirrors and the combination of all three.  So of course the exhibition includes an infinity room of a mirrored pumpkin with polka dots and a wall with mirrored polka dots.  There are rooms full of polka-dotted flowers, of polka-dotted pumpkins (apparently no two are alike) of varying dimensions and colours.  I have to admit that there's a certain compelling quality to her art.  Sadly photography is not allowed of most of her works.

(Postscript: Apparently the Forever Museum of Contemporary Art closed in Feb 2019.  Sadly it was more ephemeral than the name suggests.  Anyway, for more info, click here.)

The third and last museum we visited was Kyoto International Manga Museum.  Totally something I never expected I would go to!  But it was a rainy day and googling "things to do in Kyoto on a rainy day" resulted in the manga museum coming up multiple times, on multiple lists.  So I decided to give it a go!  My brave attempt to understand the Japanese youth culture.

Inside the Manga Museum

This was indeed a very educational visit for me, especially as I have never opened a manga comic in my life (till now).  The museum is sited in a former school building and this history is apparent in the wide staircases leading up to each floor, the steps low and broad to accommodate the little legs of the younger children, the regular rooms where the classes must have been held. The museum traces the history of manga, and how it evolved over the years. Here I learnt too about the different types of manga - violent tales of the samurai warriors, stories of ghosts and spirits living side by side humans in the modern world, some really more fantasies and others of school days (cos they are targeting at a youth audience, obviously). Anyone can take down a manga and read!  Of course much of it is in Japanese, but there is a foreign language section, including an English section so I actually browsed through a few volumes worth of popular manga, “Natsume’s Book of Friends”. But even the English manga are printed Japanese-style, in other words you start reading from the back of the book, and it goes right to left not left to right.  Takes a little getting used to.

So that's it - a trio of museums, each portraying aspects of Japanese culture, ranging from traditional ukiyo-e to the modern manga and the polka-dotted world of Yayoi Kusama.

More photos will be put up when ready.

A Family of Temples

Spectacular Kinkaku-ji

Last September, I went on my fifth holiday in Japan for five straight years.  And this time I went on my third visit to Kyoto.  Each visit, I learn more about Japan - about Japanese culture, history, and way of life.  On my previous visits to Kyoto, I went to enjoy the Hanami (cherry blossom) and Momiji (autumn leaves) seasons.  I was so busy viewing the blossoms and leaves that I didn’t get around to visiting some of the more famous sites.  This time round, there was no foliage-related activity planned.   It was time to deepen my understanding and appreciation of the historical and cultural aspects of this ancient Japanese city.

We had a rocky start to our trip.  In fact, it was fraught with uncertainty.  2018 was not a great year for Kyoto.  There was an earthquake in the Kansai region in June and just before we arrived, a major typhoon flooded Kansai International Airport, knocking it out of action.  All flights were cancelled, whilst the flood waters were being drained away and the access road and bridge to the airport were being repaired.  In the meantime, air services were being restored in slow stages.  Every few days, a few more flights were added.  We started checking out alternatives, in case we had to fly in to Nagoya instead. Fortunately, just a few days before our flight was one of the few which were allowed to proceed as planned and we flew in on a half-filled plane into a very empty airport.  Phew!  Unfortunately the typhoon damaged some of the sites we were planning to visit and so visitors were not allowed in some areas (one example below).   I was reminded of my visit to Tokyo last year when my attempt to see a snow-capped Mt Fuji and autumn leaves on the Irohazaka route to Nikko were thwarted by a typhoon just a few days earlier.

At least this year, my key “visit objectives” were not significantly affected by the bad weather. As I said, despite my multiple visits to Kyoto, there were some famous sites I’ve never been to before - such as Ginkaku-ji and Kinkaku-ji, the Silver and Gold Temples.  Kinkaku-ji is the older of the two, built by one of the shoguns, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, as a retirement villa. It was converted to a temple after his death. Ginkaku-ji was built by his grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, also as a retirement home and also converted into a temple.  Like Grandfather, like grandson.  

We tried to get to Kinkaku-ji early, to beat the crowds.  But to no avail - such is the popularity of this famous temple that it was full of crowds.  The temple itself is beautiful - a golden pavilion (it’s covered in gold leaf), floating on the waters of the lake, and mirrored in the waters.  We ascended the hill behind the lake, taking in the view of the surrounding hills and the temple beneath.  

The silver sands and cone of Ginkaku-ji 

Ginkaku-ji, however, was my favourite of the two.  There is no silver gilding on the pavilion - apparently the construction of the buildings were delayed by war and other reasons, and rather than a big lake there are smaller ponds which we could stroll around, admiring the buildings, the pond and the mossy gardens from all angles as we turned each corner.  But the highlight is the beautiful silvery gravel plain, with a cone representing Mount Fuji in one corner.  There we sat, just in front of the carefully raked gravel, and scrutinising the smooth sides of the perfectly formed cone, indeed the resemblance is there :-) 

Shrine on the Path of Philosophy

 After the Ginkaku-ji visit, we took a walk down the famous Path of Philosophy, or "Tetsugaku-no-michi", which runs along a canal flowing from the temple down to the Eikandozenrin-ji temple (which I went to on my previous Autumn Leaf visit).  The path got its name because a Kyoto University professor used to take his daily walk on the path, presumably contemplating life, the universe and everything.

Fortunately, out of cherry blossom season, the path was rather deserted and we were able to have a quiet, peaceful stroll. Every now and then there is a little landmark - a small shrine, a stone with a poem carved on it, a little shop or eatery inviting the traveller to stop for a moment.  Although there were no cherry blossoms, there were lots of flowers and greenery along the way.

Guardian mouse, with a scroll signifying learning

We passed a few little shrines and temples but only stopped once, at Otoyo-jinja Shrine.    Its key distinguishing feature is that this temple actually has a lot of cute little animals, in particular mice!  These are guardian animals, as the god of the shrine, Okuninushi, had a special relationship with them.  As the story goes, Okuninushi wanted to marry the beautiful Princess, Suseri.  Alas, her father disapproved.  Okuninushi had to complete a few tasks in order to win her hand.  In one task, an archer shot an arrow into a rice field.  When Okuninushi went to retrieve the arrow, the field was set on fire.  The mice directed him to a safe spot and retrieved the arrow for him.  And that's how our hero got to marry his Princess.

We didn't go to many other temples after these but we did pay a visit to the historic Nijo Castle.  I had visited Nijo-jo before, on my first visit to Kyoto, to look at cherry blossoms at night.   But I had never been to the palace itself and was glad for the opportunity to learn more about its history.  It was the Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa who had started building the Castle, although it was his grandson who completed it. Sadly, this time round the gardens were off limits as they had been damaged thanks to the recent typhoon so we could only walk around the famous Ninomaru Palace.

This Palace contains the main audience chambers and reception halls - the furnishings, as would be expected, are very spartan with only the tatami mats on the floor and maybe a niche or storage cupboard built into the wlal, but the walls are covered with magnificent paintings - of tigers and leopards under palm trees, or flowering trees, etc.  (We were not allowed to take photos so that's why you don't see any here.)  It was here that the Shogun would meet foreign envoys, meet his Council or his feudal lords.  It was also here that the 15th and last Shogun of Japan, Yoshinobu, gathered his retainers and announced the end of the Shogun era and the restoration of the Emperor, hence starting the Meiji Restoration and modernisation of Japan.

Photos are here.

Ninomaru Palace, Nijo Castle

Goodbye 2018, Hello 2019!

2018 was a busy and eventful year for me.  I hit my 50th year - a milestone indeed.  Some key highlights include:

• Celebrating the Big 50 - most notably, going with a bunch of friends on a road trip to Malaysia.  We went caving, stayed dormitory-style in a lodge in the Malaysian highlands and ate and ate in Ipoh.  We also had assorted birthday celebrations throughout the year.  
• Ticking items off my travel Bucket List - most notably, visiting Chartres Cathedral and Monet’s divine garden at Giverny.  I was happy to be able to take my Mother on a mini-pilgrimage in Paris, where we met up with my sister and Brother-in-law.  Spending time with family was a big item on my to-do list this year, so I was also happy to go with my cousin to Japan.  I’ve not had time to blog about it yet!  
• 2018 was also the year when the homes of my childhood/young adulthood moved out of the family.  My Grandmother had died a few years ago and this year, my mum and her siblings wound up her estate and sold her house.  Then, a few months later, my parents’ apartment was handed over to the developer after the en bloc sale was finalised.  So we had a massive clearing out to do, unearthing lots of childhood possessions and memories along the way.  We cleared the stuff out of the apartment but now some of it is sitting in boxes on the landing!
• All the cats survived the year, although poor Marlon was ill for some time with first a bad wound and then a liver complaint which led to him getting daily saline drips, poor thing.  He also got to eat the good quality premium cat food to reverse his weight loss so it was not all bad though.
• I didn’t get to read much last year as I was too busy organising holidays (I went to Malacca and Penang during the year, in addition to the Road Trip, France and Japan) and clearing house.  But I was very pleased that I finally managed to finish “Gene” by Siddhartha Mukherjee, all 500 pages worth (excluding notes and the index).  It’s a subject I’m not familiar with - learning about Mendel way back in Sec 3 really doesn’t count.  Now, at least I am a little more informed about the science and promise of precision medicine, gene therapy, etc, and the ethical dilemmas and challenges ahead.  In addition, I read Philip Yeo’s biography, “Neither Civil Nor Servant” and ESM Goh Chok Tong’s biography, “Tall Order”.  On a less serious note, I read the “Crazy Rich Asians” trilogy!  And saw the movie too!  Yes, I’ve decided I’m a fan.  
• I was also too busy to do much serious baking during the year but I am pleased that I managed to bake gingerbread men (recipe thanks to Sally’s Baking Addiction) and rolled out fresh pasta for the very first time (my technique needs improvement). 
• I’m also pleased to say that whatever I tidied up during my “Konmari” phase (clothes and books) has largely stayed tidy.  Although I still have the remainder of the “paper” category to complete, overall progress on clearing out my piles of old bank records, bills etc has been good. 
• And of course work was quite busy too :-) 

At this point, I don’t really have any firm plans for 2019.  Work wise, it is shaping up to be a very busy first quarter.  Then I’ll be busy with organising an event in early June for this charity I’m involved in.  And clearing those boxes on the landing has to be done. So maybe it’s a good thing to leave much of this year unplanned, giving myself more time to potter around, meet up with friends, read a good book or two, count my blessings and just enjoy what each day brings me.  

Photo by me, taken in the Flower Dome, Gardens by the Bay