Drinking the Waters of Lourdes

The individual pilgrim has to make his own journey in Lourdes, too. Throughout the day in Lourdes, masses are said in various languages. The Chapel of Reconciliation is open for confession and pilgrims also can take the Way of the Cross. But there are other traditions here in Lourdes – going for a bath, washing one's face in Lourdes water, and so on.

We had gone for the Way of the Cross on our first day at Lourdes, after the International Mass. There are two Ways of the Cross here in Lourdes – one for the disabled, and one for the able bodied – up a hillside. Walking up the hill in the heat, looking at these huge, full-sized statues, really did bring out the meaning of the Way of the Cross for all of us, journeying together with Christ on Calvary. It was also a good preparation for confession as we were called to examine our conscience during this journey.

Our second day in Lourdes was largely set aside for individual prayer and reflection. Having said, that, it was a very busy day starting with mass at 6am! This was the English language mass for the day at Lourdes and since we were the largest group that morning, Father was the main celebrant at mass and we had to provide the lectors for the morning, choose hymns and so on.

Of course, it was a drippy, drizzly morning so we were all there in our raincoats and umbrellas. But being at the grotto in the morning was wonderful and mass was indeed a very moving and meaningful experience. We were invited to approach the altar and the spring after mass and I took the opportunity to insert the petitions I had brought in the box provided.

We went back to the hotel for breakfast. What is really wonderful about breakfast is that our tour leader (who has a very good relationship with the hotel) has arranged hot food – omelette and sausages – for us, in addition to the continental buffet breakfast which is its standard offering. Very welcome on the cold morning. And we needed it, because the next item on our busy schedule was the baths. “Wash your face in the spring” was what Our Lady said to Bernadette (and that was all she did) but we modern pilgrims want to immerse ourselves in it. (Note that Our Lady also told Bernadette to eat the grass, but none of us are actually doing that.)

I was a little nervous, I must admit. It was a drizzly, windy morning. The water was said to be cold. We would be going in starkers. But in the end, it was over too quickly. We got there about half an hour before the baths were due to open, and sat there waiting. There are a group of volunteers who pray the rosary aloud so the atmosphere was one of prayer. The baths themselves are divided into cubicles, and at any moment there could be about 4 people going into the cubicle – undressing under the shield of a cloak, in the bath proper (a curtain separates the bath from the rest of the cubicle), change back into one's clothes etc. I was really a little excited anticipating the bath itself. Went in, and was somehow very quickly whisked out of the cloak and into a wet towel. Deftly done, I don't know how they did it. Then a quick prayer for my intentions and then I got dunked for a second or so into the water, then it was all over. One of the characteristics of the baths is that somehow there are no towels, but you dry off very quickly. Nonetheless, I got a little cold waiting in the windy, drizzly entrance way for my dear mother to emerge from the bath.

Went back to the hotel to warm up a bit and get ready for the rest of the day. It is fortunate that our hotel is so near the grotto because I think we went too and fro about 5-6 times today. After a brief rest, we went back to the Sanctuary, this time to visit the Rosary Basilica for the first time and also the upper Basilica of the Immaculate Conception above it.

But just beneath the Upper Basilica is the Crypt, the original church built on top of the grotto in response to a request by Our Lady to Bernadette. It was therefore built in the 1850s or so and what is so moving about it is that every single block of stone has an inscription on it, each thanking Our Lady of Lourdes (Notre Dame de Lourdes) for graces received. Most are in French (obviously) with a very few are in English – I saw one thanking Mary for being “Cured of Deadly Cancer”. I really like this tradition which I first noticed in Provence last year (although there it was not so much thanksgiving but "in memoriam"). It gives a sense that this is not just some beautiful building but a focal point for a particular community.

We then went to the Upper Basilica. Its beautiful stained glass windows depict the story of Bernadette, incidents in the Old/New Testament, and portray individual saints. But the majority of the pilgrims spend their time in the Rosary Basilica, which is at ground level. This Basilica got its name because all the originial 15 Mysteries of the Rosary are depicted in mosaics around the basilica. The “new” Mysteries of Light are also present, but these mosaics adorn the front of the basilica instead. I spent some time here after going for confession, praying the Rosary.

Lourdes is a place where many come to get a plenary indulgence (remission of the temporal punishment due for all sins committed). i.e. to shorten or remove time in Purgatory. For this manifestation of God's grace, we need to either take the baths or do the Way of the Cross, go to confession, receive the Eucharist, and pray for the intentions of the Pope. But what I realised was that by going through these activities in faith and prayer, I did emerge feeling spiritually cleansed and closer to God and this is the true grace which one receives from the experience.

That evening, we watched the candlelight procession. It is almost as meaningful as taking part in in directly because now you really get a good overview of what is going on and a better sense of how large the procession really is. After the procession, we lit our own candle beside the grotto.

We went back to sit and pray outside the grotto for a while. My mother was getting chilly so we left after about an hour or so but a few members of our group (we were to learn) would spend most of the night there in silent prayer.

Peace!